[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 3 November 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee
I love my cats (I have 9 of them!), but one of them is spraying urine around my house, and it stinks! What can I do? I’d like to try to keep them all indoor-only, especially since I live by a busy road.
Stinky in Solvay
Dear Stinky,
Feline urine spraying is a normal behavior in both male and female cats, yet is is quite undesirable when humans share a residence with their cats. Spraying is used as a way to mark territory. The main offenders tend to be intact male cats, so if your male cat has not been neutered yet, consider doing so as soon as possible.
Be certain that the problem is spraying versus housesoiling (not using the litter box). Spraying tends to be on vertical surfaces and involves a small amount of urine. If you are not sure, consult with your veterinarian, who may want to start with a medical workup of the problem. If a medical problem has been ruled out, consider what might be the primary cause of the spraying.
Feral cats can have surprisingly large territories. If you have multiple cats in your house, it may be that your spraying cat may be vying for more territory versus your other cats. Increased density of cats in the house can also increase stress amongst the cats, and the chance of one or more spraying in response goes up.
If you have stray cats that roam close to your house, and your cat can see them, spraying near windows and doors can occur as a “warning” to the strange cats that this territory is already occupied. Blocking access to windows can help with this. Also discourage stray cats from entering your property; do not feed them, and consider the use of aversives (www.cat-repellant.info).
Treat all the urine-sprayed surfaces with an enzymatic cleaner to remove the odor. Consider the use of Feliway (also marketed as Comfort Zone for cats), which is a synthetic feline facial pheromone analogue. Feliway can help to reduce overall stress in your cats, and is available in a pump spray and as an electronic plug-in diffuser. Do not mix the enzymatic cleaner with the Feliway because the enzymes will degrade the Feliway, too.
Consider reducing the number of cats in your household, or at least vow not to add any more. A behaviorist may be able to identify other sources of stress experienced by your cats, and suggest behavior modification exercises that can help to alleviate it.
Also consider use of anti-anxiety medication to help reduce your cat’s stress. Examples include amitriptylene, busprione, clomipramine and fluoxetine. None of these medications are labeled for use in cats, and use of one or more of them would be off-label, but I have found them to be effective. Your veterinarian may want to do baseline bloodwork before starting the medication and monitoring bloodwork while your cat is on the medication to ensure his continuing health.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Monday, June 1, 2009
Fencing
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 27 October 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My neighbors keep calling my town dog control because my Jack Russell Terrier keeps wandering out of my yard. Do you have any suggestions for how to keep him on my property so I don’t keep getting in trouble?
Escapee in Camillus
Dear Escapee,
There are multiple methods used to confine a dog to your property. These include tie-out stakes and overhead runners to which a line is attached. The other end of the line clips onto your dog’s flat collar or harness. Choke chains should not be used with a tie-out line due to risk of neck trauma. Prong collars should not be used as well because they can pop open. The advantages to tie-outs are that it is relatively inexpensive and easy to set up. The disadvantages include tangling around yard landscaping, injury from the line wrapping around legs, and slipping of the collar. Some dogs can exhibit increased aggression when tied up.
Fencing can provide a barrier to keep a dog safely in a yard while allowing a dog to run free without being tied to anything. Physical fencing comes in several varieties, including stockade and chain link. Stockade fencing can be a bit harder for dogs to climb and has the advantage of blocking the dog’s view of neighborhood activity, which can reduce nuisance barking, but is more expensive than chain link.
Invisible fencing is an option for owners who live in neighborhoods that prohibit fencing or who do not want to erect a physical fence on their property for aesthetic reasons. Invisible fencing systems consist of a buried wire that runs along the perimeter of desired dog area that is connected to a power source, and transmitter collars worn by each dog. As the dog with the collar approaches the perimeter wire, a warning signal is emitted, and if the dog crosses the perimeter, an electronic shock is delivered to the dog. These systems do require training of each dog so the dog understands what the warning signal and the punishment shock are for. Disadvantages of these systems include expense, potential for injury from the shock collar, failure of the fence during a power outage or if the collar battery runs low, and the fact that this fencing system will not keep unwanted animals or people out of your yard.
None of these fencing systems will confine every dog. Some dogs learn to climb or vault over fences, some dig under them, some chew through them. Dogs that break through an invisible fence to chase prey will often refuse to come back into the yard because they know they would be shocked on the way into the yard, too.
Consider your dog’s personality and activity level before deciding on a way to keep your dog in your yard.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My neighbors keep calling my town dog control because my Jack Russell Terrier keeps wandering out of my yard. Do you have any suggestions for how to keep him on my property so I don’t keep getting in trouble?
Escapee in Camillus
Dear Escapee,
There are multiple methods used to confine a dog to your property. These include tie-out stakes and overhead runners to which a line is attached. The other end of the line clips onto your dog’s flat collar or harness. Choke chains should not be used with a tie-out line due to risk of neck trauma. Prong collars should not be used as well because they can pop open. The advantages to tie-outs are that it is relatively inexpensive and easy to set up. The disadvantages include tangling around yard landscaping, injury from the line wrapping around legs, and slipping of the collar. Some dogs can exhibit increased aggression when tied up.
Fencing can provide a barrier to keep a dog safely in a yard while allowing a dog to run free without being tied to anything. Physical fencing comes in several varieties, including stockade and chain link. Stockade fencing can be a bit harder for dogs to climb and has the advantage of blocking the dog’s view of neighborhood activity, which can reduce nuisance barking, but is more expensive than chain link.
Invisible fencing is an option for owners who live in neighborhoods that prohibit fencing or who do not want to erect a physical fence on their property for aesthetic reasons. Invisible fencing systems consist of a buried wire that runs along the perimeter of desired dog area that is connected to a power source, and transmitter collars worn by each dog. As the dog with the collar approaches the perimeter wire, a warning signal is emitted, and if the dog crosses the perimeter, an electronic shock is delivered to the dog. These systems do require training of each dog so the dog understands what the warning signal and the punishment shock are for. Disadvantages of these systems include expense, potential for injury from the shock collar, failure of the fence during a power outage or if the collar battery runs low, and the fact that this fencing system will not keep unwanted animals or people out of your yard.
None of these fencing systems will confine every dog. Some dogs learn to climb or vault over fences, some dig under them, some chew through them. Dogs that break through an invisible fence to chase prey will often refuse to come back into the yard because they know they would be shocked on the way into the yard, too.
Consider your dog’s personality and activity level before deciding on a way to keep your dog in your yard.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Gentle Leader
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 20 October 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My Golden Retriever, Indy, is 10 months old. He’s grown so much since I got him, and now he is pulling me whenever I try to walk him. I’m afraid I’m going to end up looking like Linus at the end of his blanket when Snoopy is running with it. Help!
Sincerely,
Indy’s Mom
Dear Indy’s Mom,
If you have not taken Indy to an obedience class yet, I would highly recommend starting with that.
One tool that can help with pulling is a head halter called the Gentle Leader (see picture above, www.premier.com ). This tool consists of a nose loop and a neck strap. The fit of the neck strap is quite snug and sits above the larynx, so no pressure is ever put on the larynx or trachea. The nose loop may at first glance look like a muzzle, but when properly fit, the dog can open his mouth to eat, drink, and play fetch. The leash is attached to the ring at the bottom of the nose loop.
The Gentle Leader is a training device that operates without the use of pain, as the choke and prong collars do. When it is worn, if the dog pulls too far forward, the nose loop tightens and pressure is applied to the top of the dog’s muzzle and to the back of the neck. The dog walker should not jerk the leash – instead, gentle backwards pressure is recommended to correct the dog for pulling. As soon as the dog stops pulling, the pressure on the muzzle is released.
Dogs have a natural reflex to oppose pressure placed upon them – that is why they lean into petting – and why they lean into collars and harnesses when walking. The Gentle Leader puts pressure elsewhere when the dog pulls, so the natural tendency to pull is eliminated.
Gentle Leader headcollars come in a variety of sizes and colors. For dogs with short noses (Pugs, Boxers, Shih Tzus, etc.) the Snoot Loop (www.SnootLoop.com) may be a good alternative.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Housetraining dogs
[This was originally posted on the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 13 October 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My Mom has an eight year-old Bichon that urinates in the house. Even when she lets him out, the minute she brings him in and leaves the room, he urinates. My Mom is beside herself and does not know what to do. This dog was a rescue, so we are wondering if maybe something happened in the dog’s past that makes him do that. Any help you can give me so I can help my Mom would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Stepsister of NotHousebroken
Dear Stepsister,
My first recommendation is to bring a first-of-the-morning urine sample to your veterinarian to rule out a medical problem.
I would also like to know if this dog actually urinates outside. Perhaps he has never been taught that outside is the desirable place to urinate. If this is the case, he may need to be retrained, starting from the very beginning. I highly recommend crate training as a method for housebreaking dogs (and puppies). The crate should only be large enough for the dog to lie down comfortably, and not so big that he can eliminate on one side and rest on the other side. Most dogs do not want to soil in their resting area, so this method trains their bladder to hold it. When you feel you dog might need to urinate (i.e. after waking from a nap), take him outside to his “place.” If he urinates, he can come back inside and spend some play time with you; if he does not, he goes back into the crate for 15 minutes, after which, you take him outside again. It may be helpful to place some urine-soaked paper towels or newspapers to the area in which you prefer him to use as his toilet so that it smells like a toilet.
It is important that your dog not be allowed to be out of your sight, lest he learn that he can urinate anywhere without consequence as long as you are not in view. You can keep your dog with you by using gates to block off access to out-of-sight rooms or using a leash to tether him to you (your waist, belt loop) or a doorknob or a heavy piece of furniture. If you are not able to monitor your dog’s behavior, put him back in his crate with a treat.
It can be helpful to teach your dog to eliminate on command. To train this command (Hurry up! Get busy! Go potty!), whenever you take your dog outside, repeat the command of your choice when he starts to exhibit behavior that precedes elimination – these behaviors can vary from dog to dog, but can include circling, pacing, and sniffing. Be sure to give verbal praise when your dog does ask you ask!
If your dog does urinate inside, be sure to clean the soiled area with an enzymatic cleaner. The enzymes degrade the molecules that make the odor. Dogs have an exquisitely sensitive sense of smell, and even if you can’t smell it, your dog might, and if it smells like his toilet, he might use it as his toilet.
Lastly, do not punish your dog for urinating in the house. Rubbing a dog’s nose into soiled areas will only make him anxious because if it happened more than 5 seconds ago, they will have no recollection that they did it, and therefore have no idea why he is being punished. In fact, it may make him more likely to avoid eliminating in your presence. If you do happen to catch him in the act of urinating, interrupt the behavior (screech, pick him up, clap your hands), take him outside, and praise him if he finishes the job outside.
Housesoiling can be a frustrating problem, but with some consistent training, most dogs can be taught to eliminate outside.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My Mom has an eight year-old Bichon that urinates in the house. Even when she lets him out, the minute she brings him in and leaves the room, he urinates. My Mom is beside herself and does not know what to do. This dog was a rescue, so we are wondering if maybe something happened in the dog’s past that makes him do that. Any help you can give me so I can help my Mom would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Stepsister of NotHousebroken
Dear Stepsister,
My first recommendation is to bring a first-of-the-morning urine sample to your veterinarian to rule out a medical problem.
I would also like to know if this dog actually urinates outside. Perhaps he has never been taught that outside is the desirable place to urinate. If this is the case, he may need to be retrained, starting from the very beginning. I highly recommend crate training as a method for housebreaking dogs (and puppies). The crate should only be large enough for the dog to lie down comfortably, and not so big that he can eliminate on one side and rest on the other side. Most dogs do not want to soil in their resting area, so this method trains their bladder to hold it. When you feel you dog might need to urinate (i.e. after waking from a nap), take him outside to his “place.” If he urinates, he can come back inside and spend some play time with you; if he does not, he goes back into the crate for 15 minutes, after which, you take him outside again. It may be helpful to place some urine-soaked paper towels or newspapers to the area in which you prefer him to use as his toilet so that it smells like a toilet.
It is important that your dog not be allowed to be out of your sight, lest he learn that he can urinate anywhere without consequence as long as you are not in view. You can keep your dog with you by using gates to block off access to out-of-sight rooms or using a leash to tether him to you (your waist, belt loop) or a doorknob or a heavy piece of furniture. If you are not able to monitor your dog’s behavior, put him back in his crate with a treat.
It can be helpful to teach your dog to eliminate on command. To train this command (Hurry up! Get busy! Go potty!), whenever you take your dog outside, repeat the command of your choice when he starts to exhibit behavior that precedes elimination – these behaviors can vary from dog to dog, but can include circling, pacing, and sniffing. Be sure to give verbal praise when your dog does ask you ask!
If your dog does urinate inside, be sure to clean the soiled area with an enzymatic cleaner. The enzymes degrade the molecules that make the odor. Dogs have an exquisitely sensitive sense of smell, and even if you can’t smell it, your dog might, and if it smells like his toilet, he might use it as his toilet.
Lastly, do not punish your dog for urinating in the house. Rubbing a dog’s nose into soiled areas will only make him anxious because if it happened more than 5 seconds ago, they will have no recollection that they did it, and therefore have no idea why he is being punished. In fact, it may make him more likely to avoid eliminating in your presence. If you do happen to catch him in the act of urinating, interrupt the behavior (screech, pick him up, clap your hands), take him outside, and praise him if he finishes the job outside.
Housesoiling can be a frustrating problem, but with some consistent training, most dogs can be taught to eliminate outside.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Puppy Socialization
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 5 October 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee.
I just got my new Miniature Pinscher puppy, Jellybean, from the breeder. The breeder did recommend taking Jellybean to puppy classes, but I’m afraid that she’ll get diseases from the other puppies. I also don’t want her to get stepped on by the bigger puppies. What do you think?
Sincerely,
Jelly’s Mom in Jordan
Dear Jelly’s Mom,
Congratulations on your new family member!
I highly recommend you start your dog in a puppy class while the dog is within the first three months of life. The first three months in a puppy’s live are crucial in terms of exposing the puppy to other dogs, people, environments and stimuli – this is a time in which your puppy can be exposed to these new things without excessive fear or anxiety. Lack of this kind of socialization and exposure to new things can lead to behavior problems later in life, such as fear and aggression. Behavior problems are the leading cause for a young dog to be surrendered to a shelter. The relative risk of deadly, infectious disease is relatively small compared to the risk of a behavior problem developing due lack of proper socialization.
For more information on the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviorists position on early puppy socialization, go to http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/puppy%20socialization.pdf
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee.
I just got my new Miniature Pinscher puppy, Jellybean, from the breeder. The breeder did recommend taking Jellybean to puppy classes, but I’m afraid that she’ll get diseases from the other puppies. I also don’t want her to get stepped on by the bigger puppies. What do you think?
Sincerely,
Jelly’s Mom in Jordan
Dear Jelly’s Mom,
Congratulations on your new family member!
I highly recommend you start your dog in a puppy class while the dog is within the first three months of life. The first three months in a puppy’s live are crucial in terms of exposing the puppy to other dogs, people, environments and stimuli – this is a time in which your puppy can be exposed to these new things without excessive fear or anxiety. Lack of this kind of socialization and exposure to new things can lead to behavior problems later in life, such as fear and aggression. Behavior problems are the leading cause for a young dog to be surrendered to a shelter. The relative risk of deadly, infectious disease is relatively small compared to the risk of a behavior problem developing due lack of proper socialization.
For more information on the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviorists position on early puppy socialization, go to http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/puppy%20socialization.pdf
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
To Punish or Not to Punish?
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hosptial website on 28 September 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My husband and I just got a young, rescue German Shorthair Pointer. He is so sweet, but we are having a problem with him coming to us when called when he is outside. All he wants to do is sniff. My husband wants to get an electronic collar for him. I think that would be mean. What do you think?
Sincerely,
WannaBNice in Nedrow
Dear WannaBNice,
Electronic collars can be used to train dogs using a process called negative reinforcement. When the collar shocks a dog, it is painful and undesirable, so theoretically, the dog should do all he can to avoid the negative stimulus. The problem with electronic collars is that they require exquisite timing, else the dog may not understand what he is being punished for, and over time, mistimed punishments can create anxiety, fear and confusion. Also, the dog needs to understand just what he is being punished for, so if your dog does not understand a “come” command in the first place, the painful shock certainly will not help the situation.
In general, I recommend training with positive reinforcement (rewarding behaviors you do want your dog to exhibit) and negative punishment (removing something the dog wants to decrease the chance the undesirable behavior will occur again). For example, if I ask my dog to “come” and he does, he gets a yummy treat, and if he does not, the treat goes away (I pocket it, I give it to another, well-behaved dog, or, if I find it edible, I eat it). A “come” command can easily be trained by having the dog on a leash and flat collar. Start with small distances in a relatively distraction-free environment, and gradually increase the distance and distraction level as your dog progresses. The reward can be a small food treat, verbal praise, petting, play with a toy, or a combination of these.
The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has generated a position statement regarding punishment which states that punitive methods and tools (i.e., choke collar, prong collar, electronic collar, or other physical forms of punishment) should never be used initially in training. It also states that if such methods are offered, the handler of the dog should be made fully aware of possible negative consequences that can result. The actual position statement can be found at http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/Combined_Punishment_Statements.pdf .
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My husband and I just got a young, rescue German Shorthair Pointer. He is so sweet, but we are having a problem with him coming to us when called when he is outside. All he wants to do is sniff. My husband wants to get an electronic collar for him. I think that would be mean. What do you think?
Sincerely,
WannaBNice in Nedrow
Dear WannaBNice,
Electronic collars can be used to train dogs using a process called negative reinforcement. When the collar shocks a dog, it is painful and undesirable, so theoretically, the dog should do all he can to avoid the negative stimulus. The problem with electronic collars is that they require exquisite timing, else the dog may not understand what he is being punished for, and over time, mistimed punishments can create anxiety, fear and confusion. Also, the dog needs to understand just what he is being punished for, so if your dog does not understand a “come” command in the first place, the painful shock certainly will not help the situation.
In general, I recommend training with positive reinforcement (rewarding behaviors you do want your dog to exhibit) and negative punishment (removing something the dog wants to decrease the chance the undesirable behavior will occur again). For example, if I ask my dog to “come” and he does, he gets a yummy treat, and if he does not, the treat goes away (I pocket it, I give it to another, well-behaved dog, or, if I find it edible, I eat it). A “come” command can easily be trained by having the dog on a leash and flat collar. Start with small distances in a relatively distraction-free environment, and gradually increase the distance and distraction level as your dog progresses. The reward can be a small food treat, verbal praise, petting, play with a toy, or a combination of these.
The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has generated a position statement regarding punishment which states that punitive methods and tools (i.e., choke collar, prong collar, electronic collar, or other physical forms of punishment) should never be used initially in training. It also states that if such methods are offered, the handler of the dog should be made fully aware of possible negative consequences that can result. The actual position statement can be found at http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/Combined_Punishment_Statements.pdf .
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Play Aggression in Cats
[This was originally posted on the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 21 September 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My 7 month-old kitten Callie attacks my hands and feet – she scratches and bites them. I have multiple scrapes and scars on my hands. I’ve had her since she was a teeny baby, and while I could handle this back then, she’s bigger and stronger now. What can I do to discourage this behavior?
Scratched Up in Cicero
Dear Scratched,
Inappropriate play is often seen in cats who are orphaned early, and who never learned to control the intensity of their play. Cats who play aggressively can do serious damage.
Use a device to dissuade your cat from its exuberant behavior (for example, water pistol, air horn, fog horn) as the cat first begins to show the signs of inappropriate play to stop the behavior. When your cat acts wonderfully, reward that good behavior with gentle praise, soft petting and massage. Any time the cat plays appropriately (no teeth or unsheathed claws), reward the cat with love, praise, attention, appropriate play and kitty treats.
You should NOT use your hands to play aggressively with these cats. Your kitten should not be taught to follow your hand or foot and pounce on it. Encouraging the cat to stalk human body parts will only exacerbate the problem. Aggressive corrections are also discouraged.
Any time your cat accidentally scratches or bites a person, that person should act horrified and withdraw attention from the cat. There is no need to physically punish the cat. If the cat is young, blowing in its nose can be sufficient to startle it.
Increasing the amount of aerobic exercise your cat gets can improve the problem as well. Interactive play is often the best source of exercise, whether it be with you or with another cat.
Cats can be taught that it is acceptable to play roughly with toys, but not with people. Appropriate toys include furry mice that can be thrown for the cat to chase or fetch, and cat dancers, in which a feather or similar enticing plaything is attached to a string and can be dangled from a safe distance from teeth and claws.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My 7 month-old kitten Callie attacks my hands and feet – she scratches and bites them. I have multiple scrapes and scars on my hands. I’ve had her since she was a teeny baby, and while I could handle this back then, she’s bigger and stronger now. What can I do to discourage this behavior?
Scratched Up in Cicero
Dear Scratched,
Inappropriate play is often seen in cats who are orphaned early, and who never learned to control the intensity of their play. Cats who play aggressively can do serious damage.
Use a device to dissuade your cat from its exuberant behavior (for example, water pistol, air horn, fog horn) as the cat first begins to show the signs of inappropriate play to stop the behavior. When your cat acts wonderfully, reward that good behavior with gentle praise, soft petting and massage. Any time the cat plays appropriately (no teeth or unsheathed claws), reward the cat with love, praise, attention, appropriate play and kitty treats.
You should NOT use your hands to play aggressively with these cats. Your kitten should not be taught to follow your hand or foot and pounce on it. Encouraging the cat to stalk human body parts will only exacerbate the problem. Aggressive corrections are also discouraged.
Any time your cat accidentally scratches or bites a person, that person should act horrified and withdraw attention from the cat. There is no need to physically punish the cat. If the cat is young, blowing in its nose can be sufficient to startle it.
Increasing the amount of aerobic exercise your cat gets can improve the problem as well. Interactive play is often the best source of exercise, whether it be with you or with another cat.
Cats can be taught that it is acceptable to play roughly with toys, but not with people. Appropriate toys include furry mice that can be thrown for the cat to chase or fetch, and cat dancers, in which a feather or similar enticing plaything is attached to a string and can be dangled from a safe distance from teeth and claws.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Nothing In Life is Free
[This was originally posted on the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 14 September 2008]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My friends all say that my Poodle mix, Spike, is a “little monster.” He jumps all over them when they come over, he steals food right off their plates, barks at them when he doesn’t get his way, and sometimes he will even nip them when he is desperate to play. He does these things to me, too, but I guess I don’t mind as much as my friends. How can I get Spike to be better behaved so I can keep my friends?
Mother of a Monster in Marcellus
Dear Mother,
A well-behaved dog is a product of time and effort in training. I suggest you investigate taking an obedience class in your local area, or working with a trainer privately. Without basic training and consistent treatment at home, a dog can become confused about how to ask for food, attention and play, and he may start “demanding” these things in ways that are less than desirable for their human companions (and their friends). Many of these dogs run the households they live in.
One thing that you can do to help your situation is to constantly reinforce your position as a kind, benevolent leader of your “pack.” One of the products of domestication of dogs is the loss of their ability to be an effective leader. That means the humans of the household need to fill in the role of pack leader. How can this be achieved?
The Nothing-In-Life-Is-Free program is a powerful method to help establish the humans as the leaders and deference in the dog. Essentially, for everything that your dog likes, your dog has to sit and look at you for it. Dinner? Sit. Go out? Sit. Come back in? Sit. Treat? Sit. Throw the ball for fetch? Sit. Open the crate door? Sit. Get together with your family and come up with a list of “good things” that your dog enjoys. Do not forget to include attention – which means touching, speaking to, or even looking at your dog. Post the list in a place so everyone can see it and be reminded of what items your dog needs to sit for.
What this program actually achieves is the use of motivating situations (see the list you generated) to ask your dog for deference. Dogs primarily use body language to communicate with each other. A sit with a look to you means that your dog acknowledges your leadership status.
With consistency and time, eventually, your dog may automatically sit when he wants something – and your friends might actually come to enjoy and like Spike.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My friends all say that my Poodle mix, Spike, is a “little monster.” He jumps all over them when they come over, he steals food right off their plates, barks at them when he doesn’t get his way, and sometimes he will even nip them when he is desperate to play. He does these things to me, too, but I guess I don’t mind as much as my friends. How can I get Spike to be better behaved so I can keep my friends?
Mother of a Monster in Marcellus
Dear Mother,
A well-behaved dog is a product of time and effort in training. I suggest you investigate taking an obedience class in your local area, or working with a trainer privately. Without basic training and consistent treatment at home, a dog can become confused about how to ask for food, attention and play, and he may start “demanding” these things in ways that are less than desirable for their human companions (and their friends). Many of these dogs run the households they live in.
One thing that you can do to help your situation is to constantly reinforce your position as a kind, benevolent leader of your “pack.” One of the products of domestication of dogs is the loss of their ability to be an effective leader. That means the humans of the household need to fill in the role of pack leader. How can this be achieved?
The Nothing-In-Life-Is-Free program is a powerful method to help establish the humans as the leaders and deference in the dog. Essentially, for everything that your dog likes, your dog has to sit and look at you for it. Dinner? Sit. Go out? Sit. Come back in? Sit. Treat? Sit. Throw the ball for fetch? Sit. Open the crate door? Sit. Get together with your family and come up with a list of “good things” that your dog enjoys. Do not forget to include attention – which means touching, speaking to, or even looking at your dog. Post the list in a place so everyone can see it and be reminded of what items your dog needs to sit for.
What this program actually achieves is the use of motivating situations (see the list you generated) to ask your dog for deference. Dogs primarily use body language to communicate with each other. A sit with a look to you means that your dog acknowledges your leadership status.
With consistency and time, eventually, your dog may automatically sit when he wants something – and your friends might actually come to enjoy and like Spike.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
How to have a happy dog
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital Website on 31 August 2008]
Dear Dr. Lee,
I’m the owner of a one year-old chocolate Lab. She’s driving me nuts! When I get home from work, she charges all over the house, barking and whining. Sometimes I find a chewed sneaker or evidence of counter surfing, too. We have been to puppy class and a basic obedience class and she graduated both. What else can I do?
Nuts in Onondaga
Dear Nuts,
Young dogs often exhibit an overabundance of energy. Sometimes this excess energy can spill over into undesirable behaviors, such as destructive chewing and excessive vocalizations and activity.
One of my favorite mantras in canine behavior is “A tired dog is a happy dog!” A dog who receives adequate amounts of exercise is less likely to exhibit the undesirable behaviors mentioned above. They will be less likely to overgroom, and will be happier and calmer overall. Additionally, multiple studies have shown that dogs in ideal body condition can have a longer life expectancy.
How much exercise your dog can have is largely dependent on your dog’s current body condition, health and age. Please consult your veterinarian for this type of advice specifically regarding your dog.
There are many ways to exercise your dog to suit your own personal activity level and time limitations. Here are some examples:
• Leash walks around your neighborhood with you or a dog walker
• Jogging or biking with you
• Fetch with a Frisbee or ball
• Play groups with other dogs at a dog park or doggie daycare
• Obedience or agility class
• Swimming
• Toys that reward the dog for playing with them, such as the Buster® Cube, the Kong® toy, and the Busy Buddy™ toys
• Chewing – please ask your veterinarian what toys or chew treats are appropriate for your dog
• Toy on a whip – attach a piece of fur (fake or real) or a ball to the end of a lunge whip – you can stand in place, and manipulate the whip so the toy flicks from side to side and around – while your dog runs circles around you.
Get out there and play and exercise with your dog – chances are you’ll both enjoy the shared activity and each other.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
I’m the owner of a one year-old chocolate Lab. She’s driving me nuts! When I get home from work, she charges all over the house, barking and whining. Sometimes I find a chewed sneaker or evidence of counter surfing, too. We have been to puppy class and a basic obedience class and she graduated both. What else can I do?
Nuts in Onondaga
Dear Nuts,
Young dogs often exhibit an overabundance of energy. Sometimes this excess energy can spill over into undesirable behaviors, such as destructive chewing and excessive vocalizations and activity.
One of my favorite mantras in canine behavior is “A tired dog is a happy dog!” A dog who receives adequate amounts of exercise is less likely to exhibit the undesirable behaviors mentioned above. They will be less likely to overgroom, and will be happier and calmer overall. Additionally, multiple studies have shown that dogs in ideal body condition can have a longer life expectancy.
How much exercise your dog can have is largely dependent on your dog’s current body condition, health and age. Please consult your veterinarian for this type of advice specifically regarding your dog.
There are many ways to exercise your dog to suit your own personal activity level and time limitations. Here are some examples:
• Leash walks around your neighborhood with you or a dog walker
• Jogging or biking with you
• Fetch with a Frisbee or ball
• Play groups with other dogs at a dog park or doggie daycare
• Obedience or agility class
• Swimming
• Toys that reward the dog for playing with them, such as the Buster® Cube, the Kong® toy, and the Busy Buddy™ toys
• Chewing – please ask your veterinarian what toys or chew treats are appropriate for your dog
• Toy on a whip – attach a piece of fur (fake or real) or a ball to the end of a lunge whip – you can stand in place, and manipulate the whip so the toy flicks from side to side and around – while your dog runs circles around you.
Get out there and play and exercise with your dog – chances are you’ll both enjoy the shared activity and each other.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Destructive Scratching
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 7 September 2008]
Dear Dr. Lee,
I adopted a cat from the SPCA two months ago. I love this cat, but he is ruining my furniture! The arms of my couch are shredded. Is there anything I can do short of declawing him?
Sincerely, Floored (because that’s where I’ll be sitting soon) in Camillus
Dear Floored,
Destructive scratching can cause considerable damage to household furniture, carpets and walls. Scent marking is a natural behavior in cats. Cats do have scent glands in their paw pads, so when they scratch, they leave a territorial mark. Scratching functions to remove the dead outer layer of claws, and can be part of stretching. Scratching also provides exercise for the cat.
Consider what your cat likes to scratch, and try to get a scratching post of that material. Common substrates include carpet, sisal rope, cardboard (may be impregnated with catnip). Your cat may also enjoy scratching at the bark on a large piece of firewood.
Also consider what orientation your cat prefers to scratch in. Some cats prefer to scratch on a vertical surface, some on a horizontal surface. Be sure the scratching post you provide caters to this preference.
Initially, place the scratching post near the location of destructive scratching. Reward your cat for interacting, then scratching the post. Rewards could consist of verbal or physical praise, or a small food treat.
Other alternatives include regular pedicures to keep the claws short. Aerobic exercise through interactive play with you or toys may help to burn excess energy that otherwise might be spent scratching. Another option is to use Soft Paws®, which are vinyl nail caps that are glued to the claws and last for up to six weeks (for more information, visit http://www.softpaws.com/ ).
If none of these options help, you could consider the declaw surgery. I think it is better for your cat to have a happy home and be declawed, than not have a home at all.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
I adopted a cat from the SPCA two months ago. I love this cat, but he is ruining my furniture! The arms of my couch are shredded. Is there anything I can do short of declawing him?
Sincerely, Floored (because that’s where I’ll be sitting soon) in Camillus
Dear Floored,
Destructive scratching can cause considerable damage to household furniture, carpets and walls. Scent marking is a natural behavior in cats. Cats do have scent glands in their paw pads, so when they scratch, they leave a territorial mark. Scratching functions to remove the dead outer layer of claws, and can be part of stretching. Scratching also provides exercise for the cat.
Consider what your cat likes to scratch, and try to get a scratching post of that material. Common substrates include carpet, sisal rope, cardboard (may be impregnated with catnip). Your cat may also enjoy scratching at the bark on a large piece of firewood.
Also consider what orientation your cat prefers to scratch in. Some cats prefer to scratch on a vertical surface, some on a horizontal surface. Be sure the scratching post you provide caters to this preference.
Initially, place the scratching post near the location of destructive scratching. Reward your cat for interacting, then scratching the post. Rewards could consist of verbal or physical praise, or a small food treat.
Other alternatives include regular pedicures to keep the claws short. Aerobic exercise through interactive play with you or toys may help to burn excess energy that otherwise might be spent scratching. Another option is to use Soft Paws®, which are vinyl nail caps that are glued to the claws and last for up to six weeks (for more information, visit http://www.softpaws.com/ ).
If none of these options help, you could consider the declaw surgery. I think it is better for your cat to have a happy home and be declawed, than not have a home at all.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Litter Box Blues
[This was originally posted on the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 24 August 2008]
Dear Dr. Lee,
Help! My cat is peeing outside the litter box! What can I do?
- Stinky House in Syracuse
Dear Stinky,
The number one cause of relinquishment of cats to a shelter is house soiling. Here are some ideas that may help:
- Rule out a medical problem. If your cat has not done this previously, try to collect a urine sample and bring it to your veterinarian for a urinalysis. If you are unable to obtain a sample at home, your veterinarian may be able to get it for you, or hospitalize the cat until it can be done. Other diagnostic tests include baseline bloodwork and imaging (radiographs, ultrasound). If it hurts your cat to urinate in the litter box, your cat may try another location as a toilet (maybe it won’t hurt there).
- Clean all litter boxes once or twice daily. Many cats are reluctant to use a dirty litter box. My favorite human analogy is the rest rooms at a rest stop on an Interstate highway. Do you choose a stall with a dirty toilet or a clean toilet?
The magic number of litter boxes to have in a house is the number of household cats plus one. Some cats will not use a box used by another cat, and some prefer to defecate in one box and urinate in another.
- Make sure your cat likes the litter you are using. Cats are creatures of habit. If you switch to a different type or brand of litter, your cat may not “recognize” it as the litter box. I like fine-grained clumping litter – the waste is easily removed, providing a clean box. If the problems continue, try changing all the litter once weekly, or providing a new litter box that does not smell of urine from years gone by.
- Try to avoid litters with “crystals” that absorb the urine. When liquid hits the crystals, they crystals fizz audibly, and become quite hot to the touch, which can disconcert a cat.
- Other aversive litter box items include litter pan liners and deodorizers (a toilet is not supposed to smell like flowers, to the cat).
- If you are currently using a covered litter pan, try using one that is open. The cover can contain smells that make the box seem “dirty.”
- The self-cleaning litter boxes can be scary to some cats because sometimes they start the cleaning process before the cat is done (human analogy: when the public toilet self-flushes while you are still using it).
- If you have multiple cats, try putting the litter boxes in different locations throughout the household. One of the cats could be acting as a bully, preventing access to the boxes by the victim.
- If you think your cat is marking areas in your house by spraying, that may be a separate issue, which will be covered in another column.
Sincerely, Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
Help! My cat is peeing outside the litter box! What can I do?
- Stinky House in Syracuse
Dear Stinky,
The number one cause of relinquishment of cats to a shelter is house soiling. Here are some ideas that may help:
- Rule out a medical problem. If your cat has not done this previously, try to collect a urine sample and bring it to your veterinarian for a urinalysis. If you are unable to obtain a sample at home, your veterinarian may be able to get it for you, or hospitalize the cat until it can be done. Other diagnostic tests include baseline bloodwork and imaging (radiographs, ultrasound). If it hurts your cat to urinate in the litter box, your cat may try another location as a toilet (maybe it won’t hurt there).
- Clean all litter boxes once or twice daily. Many cats are reluctant to use a dirty litter box. My favorite human analogy is the rest rooms at a rest stop on an Interstate highway. Do you choose a stall with a dirty toilet or a clean toilet?
The magic number of litter boxes to have in a house is the number of household cats plus one. Some cats will not use a box used by another cat, and some prefer to defecate in one box and urinate in another.
- Make sure your cat likes the litter you are using. Cats are creatures of habit. If you switch to a different type or brand of litter, your cat may not “recognize” it as the litter box. I like fine-grained clumping litter – the waste is easily removed, providing a clean box. If the problems continue, try changing all the litter once weekly, or providing a new litter box that does not smell of urine from years gone by.
- Try to avoid litters with “crystals” that absorb the urine. When liquid hits the crystals, they crystals fizz audibly, and become quite hot to the touch, which can disconcert a cat.
- Other aversive litter box items include litter pan liners and deodorizers (a toilet is not supposed to smell like flowers, to the cat).
- If you are currently using a covered litter pan, try using one that is open. The cover can contain smells that make the box seem “dirty.”
- The self-cleaning litter boxes can be scary to some cats because sometimes they start the cleaning process before the cat is done (human analogy: when the public toilet self-flushes while you are still using it).
- If you have multiple cats, try putting the litter boxes in different locations throughout the household. One of the cats could be acting as a bully, preventing access to the boxes by the victim.
- If you think your cat is marking areas in your house by spraying, that may be a separate issue, which will be covered in another column.
Sincerely, Dr. Lee
Who am I?
I have a B.A. in Biological Science from Goucher College and a M.S. in Neurobiology and Behavior from Cornell University. I am a 2002 graduate of the College of Veterinary Medicine at Cornell University. I was the trainer for the Animal Behavior Clinic for the years I was a student there under the tutelage of Dr. Katherine Houpt, VMD PhD DACVB (chief of service), Dr. Vint Virga, DVM DACVB (resident), and Dr. Tracy Kroll, DVM (resident). As a student, I did an internship with Dr. Amy Marder, VMD and the behavior service at the ASPCA in New York City, as well as an internship with Dr. Houpt.
Since graduation, I have been an associate veterinarian at Fairmount Animal Hospital in Syracuse. I maintain my special interest in veterinary behavior, mostly in dogs and cats. I see a variety of behavior cases in the hospital; at- home visits in Central New York can be arranged. I am a member of the American Veterinary Society of Veterinary Behaviorists.
My primary objective as a veterinarian is to help pets and owners enjoy a more satisfying relationship with each other and maintaining the pet’s health to maintain the pet’s quality of life. Pets have the ability to enrich our lives immensely, and I feel that owners also have a responsibility to enrich their pets’ lives, too.
I have three dogs and a cat. Marcus (MACH Marcus Rochester Lee, CDX MXP MJP RN) is a 13 year-old Brittany who was my inspiration to become a veterinarian. He recently retired from agility and obedience. Whiskey (CH Top Shelf’s Crown Royal MX MXJ MXF AD) is a 5 year-old Brittany who is actively competing in agility at local and national levels. We are also starting some formal obedience training and hope to compete in that venue someday. Nutmeg (AKA Meg) is a former research cat from a Fat Cat Study at Cornell. Her primary life objectives are food and belly rubs. New to the household is baby Journey (Millette's Don't Stop Believin'). He's just a pup and learning how to be a good dog.
Since graduation, I have been an associate veterinarian at Fairmount Animal Hospital in Syracuse. I maintain my special interest in veterinary behavior, mostly in dogs and cats. I see a variety of behavior cases in the hospital; at- home visits in Central New York can be arranged. I am a member of the American Veterinary Society of Veterinary Behaviorists.
My primary objective as a veterinarian is to help pets and owners enjoy a more satisfying relationship with each other and maintaining the pet’s health to maintain the pet’s quality of life. Pets have the ability to enrich our lives immensely, and I feel that owners also have a responsibility to enrich their pets’ lives, too.
I have three dogs and a cat. Marcus (MACH Marcus Rochester Lee, CDX MXP MJP RN) is a 13 year-old Brittany who was my inspiration to become a veterinarian. He recently retired from agility and obedience. Whiskey (CH Top Shelf’s Crown Royal MX MXJ MXF AD) is a 5 year-old Brittany who is actively competing in agility at local and national levels. We are also starting some formal obedience training and hope to compete in that venue someday. Nutmeg (AKA Meg) is a former research cat from a Fat Cat Study at Cornell. Her primary life objectives are food and belly rubs. New to the household is baby Journey (Millette's Don't Stop Believin'). He's just a pup and learning how to be a good dog.
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