[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 22 December 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My 5 month-old Bearded Collie, Lillith, keeps grabbing my hand with her teeth. She does not bite down, but it is annoying. She does it when we are playing, and even if I’m just taking her for a walk, she’ll leap up and grab it. Thank goodness she does not have many puppy teeth left. An even bigger problem is that she is now doing this with my guests. I am embarrassed and a little afraid someone might sue me, thinking she bit someone aggressively. What can I do?
Sincerely,
Mouthed in Manlius
Dear Mouthed,
Mouthing is a common behavior exhibited by puppies, particularly those who are exploring their world through their mouths or teething. It is, however, not an acceptable behavior when it is applied to any human body part. Potential consequences can range from mere annoyance, to fear, anger, a potential lawsuit and loss of homeowner’s insurance.
When a new dog enters your house, you should immediately make it a rule that no canine teeth touch human skin. Any touch of teeth to skin can be construed as a bite. Most dogs mouth humans because they want to either initiate play or escalate the level of play. To teach the new rule, consider the following recommendations:
• Do not offer your body parts for your dog to mouth, even if it is just to keep him out of trouble. If you have a puppy who is going through the oral stage, offer an acceptable alternative for him to chew (a toy).
• If you see your dog leaping at you to grab your hand, tuck your hands under your armpits and withdraw attention until your dog can ask for your attention in a more acceptable manner.
• If your dog sneaks up on you and puts his teeth on you, yip (as if you were a hurt puppy), act like the teeth burned you, and shun the dog for 30 seconds (no looking, speaking to, or touching). In this manner, you let the dog know that he hurt you, and you fail to give him what he really wanted (start of or more intense play).
• If your dog chooses to interact with you with a toy instead of mouthing you, be sure to reward that – it is a behavior we DO want.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Monday, July 27, 2009
Desensitization to the Veterinary Exam
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 15 December 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My Siberian Husky almost bit her veterinarian last week when we went in for a routine physical examination. He was trying to feel her abdomen, and she turned around an tried to nip him. I was terribly embarrassed, because while this is the first time she tried to bite, she has always been touchy about her belly, even as a puppy (in the past, she’s bared her teeth and growled). We eventually used a muzzle and the veterinarian was able to determine there was nothing obviously wrong with her. Other than getting her used to a muzzle, what can I do to help this situation?
Concerned in Cato
Dear Concerned,
I certainly appreciate your dedication to your dog’s well being. The physical examination is the foundation of good medical care for any pet, and in order for that to happen, the pet needs to be at least somewhat cooperative.
Desensitization to the veterinary exam should be done with all puppies and kittens, although there is no reason why you cannot do this with an adult dog as well.
Starting with her head, lift up her lips and inspect her teeth. Be sure to pull her lips back to look at her molars, too. Open her mouth and look at the roof of her mouth and her tongue. Peer into her ears, and massage them, and briefly insert a finger into the ear canal if it will fit. Massage her all over, including her face, neck, back, sides, underneath, upper limbs, lower limbs, tail and feet. Lift the tail, pick up a foot at a time, pinch the toenails. If she is sensitive in any of these areas, back off on the intensity of the touch, and reward her positively (verbal praise, small food treat), for allowing you to slowly increase the pressure and duration of touch in those sensitive areas.
If your dog flops over onto her back while you touch her, that is fine in the beginning, but consider that most of the veterinary exam is done with the dog in an upright position, and you may eventually want to train for that, as well.
Ask the veterinary office if it would be permissible to bring your dog in for a “happy visit” in which she walks into the hospital, walks on the scale, and interacts with some of the staff in a very positive manner. These “happy visits” involve no needles or other painful stimuli, and can teach your dog to be relaxed even in the waiting room.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My Siberian Husky almost bit her veterinarian last week when we went in for a routine physical examination. He was trying to feel her abdomen, and she turned around an tried to nip him. I was terribly embarrassed, because while this is the first time she tried to bite, she has always been touchy about her belly, even as a puppy (in the past, she’s bared her teeth and growled). We eventually used a muzzle and the veterinarian was able to determine there was nothing obviously wrong with her. Other than getting her used to a muzzle, what can I do to help this situation?
Concerned in Cato
Dear Concerned,
I certainly appreciate your dedication to your dog’s well being. The physical examination is the foundation of good medical care for any pet, and in order for that to happen, the pet needs to be at least somewhat cooperative.
Desensitization to the veterinary exam should be done with all puppies and kittens, although there is no reason why you cannot do this with an adult dog as well.
Starting with her head, lift up her lips and inspect her teeth. Be sure to pull her lips back to look at her molars, too. Open her mouth and look at the roof of her mouth and her tongue. Peer into her ears, and massage them, and briefly insert a finger into the ear canal if it will fit. Massage her all over, including her face, neck, back, sides, underneath, upper limbs, lower limbs, tail and feet. Lift the tail, pick up a foot at a time, pinch the toenails. If she is sensitive in any of these areas, back off on the intensity of the touch, and reward her positively (verbal praise, small food treat), for allowing you to slowly increase the pressure and duration of touch in those sensitive areas.
If your dog flops over onto her back while you touch her, that is fine in the beginning, but consider that most of the veterinary exam is done with the dog in an upright position, and you may eventually want to train for that, as well.
Ask the veterinary office if it would be permissible to bring your dog in for a “happy visit” in which she walks into the hospital, walks on the scale, and interacts with some of the staff in a very positive manner. These “happy visits” involve no needles or other painful stimuli, and can teach your dog to be relaxed even in the waiting room.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Boarding anxiety
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 8 December 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
When my 2 dogs, 8 and 6 years old, went to the kennel, they always stayed in the same crate. My 8 year old never minded it, but my 6 year-old was extremely nervous and sometimes wouldn't eat for a couple of days. Two weeks ago, when they were at the kennel, my 8 year-old became ill and had to be euthanized. My question is, we are going away in three weeks and I don't know if my dog will be traumatized going back to the same kennel without my other dog. He never saw the dog after they euthanized her, so the last scent he remembers is her fear. Would it be better to switch kennels, even though the staff know and love him? Or will he be more traumatized going to a new place with new staff and a new routine? Do you feel he will remember everything that happened at the kennel? I'd appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks you so much!
~ Distraught in Syracuse
Dear Distraught,
First, please accept my heartfelt condolences for your tragic loss. This must have been awful for everyone, including you, your six year-old dog, and the kennel personnel. Even if your dog does not remember the details of his last kennel stay, he will no doubt miss your other dog, as she was always there when they were kenneled.
You have multiple options for your dog as far as boarding when you go out of town. It is not unusual for dogs to be nervous when then are kenneled, and this can result in behaviors such as anorexia. If you feel the personnel at the boarding kennel you like and know will treat him well, you can certainly do a test run by boarding him for the day, and seeing how he does. Have them feed him his breakfast and see if he will eat for them, or take treats from them, or both. You may also opt to do this at a new kennel and compare his behaviors at each.
Another option is to hire a house sitter who would be willing to care for your dog as well. This does offer more personalized attention and a familiar and comfortable environment for your dog.
If your dog does not do well in either situation because he is grieving, speak with your veterinarian about the possibility of using a short (3-6 months) course of an anti-anxiety medication to help, and try to get him involved in family activities and exercise as much as possible.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
When my 2 dogs, 8 and 6 years old, went to the kennel, they always stayed in the same crate. My 8 year old never minded it, but my 6 year-old was extremely nervous and sometimes wouldn't eat for a couple of days. Two weeks ago, when they were at the kennel, my 8 year-old became ill and had to be euthanized. My question is, we are going away in three weeks and I don't know if my dog will be traumatized going back to the same kennel without my other dog. He never saw the dog after they euthanized her, so the last scent he remembers is her fear. Would it be better to switch kennels, even though the staff know and love him? Or will he be more traumatized going to a new place with new staff and a new routine? Do you feel he will remember everything that happened at the kennel? I'd appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks you so much!
~ Distraught in Syracuse
Dear Distraught,
First, please accept my heartfelt condolences for your tragic loss. This must have been awful for everyone, including you, your six year-old dog, and the kennel personnel. Even if your dog does not remember the details of his last kennel stay, he will no doubt miss your other dog, as she was always there when they were kenneled.
You have multiple options for your dog as far as boarding when you go out of town. It is not unusual for dogs to be nervous when then are kenneled, and this can result in behaviors such as anorexia. If you feel the personnel at the boarding kennel you like and know will treat him well, you can certainly do a test run by boarding him for the day, and seeing how he does. Have them feed him his breakfast and see if he will eat for them, or take treats from them, or both. You may also opt to do this at a new kennel and compare his behaviors at each.
Another option is to hire a house sitter who would be willing to care for your dog as well. This does offer more personalized attention and a familiar and comfortable environment for your dog.
If your dog does not do well in either situation because he is grieving, speak with your veterinarian about the possibility of using a short (3-6 months) course of an anti-anxiety medication to help, and try to get him involved in family activities and exercise as much as possible.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Cat Toy Preference
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 1 December 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My sister’s cat loves fuzzy mice toys. When I got my new cat from the animal shelter, I bought a half dozen fuzzy mice for him, but he ignores them. Is there something wrong with him?
Puzzled in Palermo
Dear Puzzled,
Cats can have distinct prey preferences, even if they have been indoors all their lives, and this may influence his choice of play toys. Prey preference can fall into the general categories of “bird,” “mouse,” and “bug.”
“Bird” toys have feathers attached to them. Some of them fly through the air (fishing pole type toys). Peacock feathers can be the ultimate “bird” toy. Toys that make chirping sounds also fall into this category.
“Mouse” type toys can be covered with fur. Stuffed animals and balls also fall into this category. These toys move on the ground instead of flying through the air.
“Bug” toys are small and move rapidly. Examples include laser pointers, a string with a knot tied at the end, or a kibble thrown across the floor.
In order to figure out your cat’s toy preference, determine what kind of prey he prefers. If your cat spends time looking out a window, see if you can figure out what captures his attention the most. Is it the bird that lands on the branch nearby, or the bug that flies near the window pane, or the chipmunk in the garden? You can also test your cats preferences by providing toys in different categories sequentially or at the same time, and seeing what your cat chooses.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My sister’s cat loves fuzzy mice toys. When I got my new cat from the animal shelter, I bought a half dozen fuzzy mice for him, but he ignores them. Is there something wrong with him?
Puzzled in Palermo
Dear Puzzled,
Cats can have distinct prey preferences, even if they have been indoors all their lives, and this may influence his choice of play toys. Prey preference can fall into the general categories of “bird,” “mouse,” and “bug.”
“Bird” toys have feathers attached to them. Some of them fly through the air (fishing pole type toys). Peacock feathers can be the ultimate “bird” toy. Toys that make chirping sounds also fall into this category.
“Mouse” type toys can be covered with fur. Stuffed animals and balls also fall into this category. These toys move on the ground instead of flying through the air.
“Bug” toys are small and move rapidly. Examples include laser pointers, a string with a knot tied at the end, or a kibble thrown across the floor.
In order to figure out your cat’s toy preference, determine what kind of prey he prefers. If your cat spends time looking out a window, see if you can figure out what captures his attention the most. Is it the bird that lands on the branch nearby, or the bug that flies near the window pane, or the chipmunk in the garden? You can also test your cats preferences by providing toys in different categories sequentially or at the same time, and seeing what your cat chooses.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Interactive Feline Play
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital web site on 24 November 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
I’ve been told by my veterinarian that my cat is too heavy. Other than limiting calories, is there anything else I can do to keep my cat fit? How do you get a cat to do jumping jacks?
Chubbs in Canastota
Dear Chubbs,
I have yet to see a cat do jumping jacks, but there are ways to increase your cat’s activity level, which can result not only in weight control, but enhance the bond with your cat. Planned sessions of interactive play can also result in a cat willing to rest when you do (and thus less inclined to bother you while you’re sleeping), and may decrease play aggression because your play will be in a controlled manner.
Here are some suggestions for play with your cat:
• Fetch – If your cat does not fetch yet, tie a string to his favorite toy, toss the toy, then reel it back in. Eventually, your cat may start bringing the toy back to you himself because he gets rewarded by another toss of the toy.
• Drag a string or a shoelace around the house. To increase interest, you can tie a knot or attach a folded paper fan. You can drag the string up and down areas that your cat is allowed to climb to increase the intensity of his “work out.”
• Ball – If your cat does not know how to play with one, you may need to help him by pushing it yourself first. This is particularly fun on hard surfaces, like hardwood floors or the bathtub. There are treat balls that you can load with kibble or treats that reward the cat for playing with it – as the cat plays with it, food falls out.
• The recall game – with a friend or family member, have your cat run between the two of you and reward with a small food treat each time the cat runs to you.
• Toss – throw a piece of kibble or a treat down a long hallway for your food-motivated cat.
• Hang a toy from a doorknob or the top of the door frame. Jiggle it to make it more interesting.
• Container game – Use an empty paper bag or cardboard box. Cats are naturally curious about these spaces. When he goes in, scratch the outside of the container with your finger and your cat may try to catch your finger through the container wall.
• Movement – make any toy your cat likes more interesting by making it move.
• Laser pointer – many cats will chase the beam for hours. Do not direct the beam into the eyes of people or animals. Do not use this method of play with dogs, as they can develop obsessive compulsive disorder.
• Hide and seek – pretend to hide. As your cat approaches your hiding spot, “reveal” yourself and pet your cat and tell him how brilliant he is.
• Toy rotation – do not leave all your cats toys out at the same time. Hide them and rotate through them – it adds an aspect of novelty, even if it is a toy he has played with before.
Some additional hints: Do not reward bad behavior by playing with your cat – start a play session when your cat is calm. Do not use body parts as toys (see Play Aggression article). Set aside specific times of day for the play sessions so that your cat knows when to anticipate his fun time.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
P.S. Next week, how to choose toys for your cat.
Dear Dr. Lee,
I’ve been told by my veterinarian that my cat is too heavy. Other than limiting calories, is there anything else I can do to keep my cat fit? How do you get a cat to do jumping jacks?
Chubbs in Canastota
Dear Chubbs,
I have yet to see a cat do jumping jacks, but there are ways to increase your cat’s activity level, which can result not only in weight control, but enhance the bond with your cat. Planned sessions of interactive play can also result in a cat willing to rest when you do (and thus less inclined to bother you while you’re sleeping), and may decrease play aggression because your play will be in a controlled manner.
Here are some suggestions for play with your cat:
• Fetch – If your cat does not fetch yet, tie a string to his favorite toy, toss the toy, then reel it back in. Eventually, your cat may start bringing the toy back to you himself because he gets rewarded by another toss of the toy.
• Drag a string or a shoelace around the house. To increase interest, you can tie a knot or attach a folded paper fan. You can drag the string up and down areas that your cat is allowed to climb to increase the intensity of his “work out.”
• Ball – If your cat does not know how to play with one, you may need to help him by pushing it yourself first. This is particularly fun on hard surfaces, like hardwood floors or the bathtub. There are treat balls that you can load with kibble or treats that reward the cat for playing with it – as the cat plays with it, food falls out.
• The recall game – with a friend or family member, have your cat run between the two of you and reward with a small food treat each time the cat runs to you.
• Toss – throw a piece of kibble or a treat down a long hallway for your food-motivated cat.
• Hang a toy from a doorknob or the top of the door frame. Jiggle it to make it more interesting.
• Container game – Use an empty paper bag or cardboard box. Cats are naturally curious about these spaces. When he goes in, scratch the outside of the container with your finger and your cat may try to catch your finger through the container wall.
• Movement – make any toy your cat likes more interesting by making it move.
• Laser pointer – many cats will chase the beam for hours. Do not direct the beam into the eyes of people or animals. Do not use this method of play with dogs, as they can develop obsessive compulsive disorder.
• Hide and seek – pretend to hide. As your cat approaches your hiding spot, “reveal” yourself and pet your cat and tell him how brilliant he is.
• Toy rotation – do not leave all your cats toys out at the same time. Hide them and rotate through them – it adds an aspect of novelty, even if it is a toy he has played with before.
Some additional hints: Do not reward bad behavior by playing with your cat – start a play session when your cat is calm. Do not use body parts as toys (see Play Aggression article). Set aside specific times of day for the play sessions so that your cat knows when to anticipate his fun time.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
P.S. Next week, how to choose toys for your cat.
Cats on Counters
[This was originally posted to Fairmount Animal Hospital's website on 17 November 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
I absolutely adore my kitten, Max. My mother is having fits because Max jumps up on the kitchen counters to investigate. Mom says that is where she prepares meals, and cats should not be up there. How can I teach Max not to jump up on the counter?
Smitten to the Max in Dewitt
Dear Smitten,
Kittens are normally energetic and inquisitive creatures. It is not surprising Max has discovered that the kitchen counter is an interesting place to be. Thus it is important to keep the counter free of food and potential playthings (i.e., twist ties, plastic bags, etc.) so that he does not have the opportunity to self-reward himself for being up there.
Some cats can be negatively reinforced from certain behaviors by a squirt from a water gun. However, most cats learn to avoid the behavior when the squirt gun is present, and when it is not, they feel at liberty to pursue the behavior because there is no consequence.
There ares battery operated device called Ssscat! and Spray Sentry that can help to reinforce boundaries in a non-painful way, even if you are not present. When the motion sensor is tripped, the device emits a jet of compressed air (hence the name), which startles the cat.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
I absolutely adore my kitten, Max. My mother is having fits because Max jumps up on the kitchen counters to investigate. Mom says that is where she prepares meals, and cats should not be up there. How can I teach Max not to jump up on the counter?
Smitten to the Max in Dewitt
Dear Smitten,
Kittens are normally energetic and inquisitive creatures. It is not surprising Max has discovered that the kitchen counter is an interesting place to be. Thus it is important to keep the counter free of food and potential playthings (i.e., twist ties, plastic bags, etc.) so that he does not have the opportunity to self-reward himself for being up there.
Some cats can be negatively reinforced from certain behaviors by a squirt from a water gun. However, most cats learn to avoid the behavior when the squirt gun is present, and when it is not, they feel at liberty to pursue the behavior because there is no consequence.
There ares battery operated device called Ssscat! and Spray Sentry that can help to reinforce boundaries in a non-painful way, even if you are not present. When the motion sensor is tripped, the device emits a jet of compressed air (hence the name), which startles the cat.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Muzzles
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 10 November 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My German Shepherd Dog is terrified when he goes to the veterinary office or to the groomer’s for a bath. I am afraid he is going to bite someone. At home he is a sweetheart. Any suggestions?
Nervous in Camillus
Dear Nervous,
The veterinary office and the grooming salon can be nerve wracking places for your dog because he may be manipulated in ways in which he is not altogether comfortable. One of the best things that you can do is bring your dog to those places for “happy visits” in which he goes into the building, maybe stands on the scale and gets a cookie from a receptionist or assistant, and then leaves, without being poked or prodded. This will help to reduce the amount of anxiety associated with the physical location.
The muzzle is a wonderful tool that can help to prevent a bite by an animal that is scared, painful or aggressive. Typical muzzles that can be purchased include a nylon fabric type and a basket type. The basket muzzle has the advantage in that the dog can pant easily. Also, they can learn to dunk the whole muzzle in a bowl of water to drink, and treats can easily be delivered through between the wires.
You can train your dog to accept a muzzle easily. This will allow you to put the muzzle on in situations in which he might need to have one on with minimal fuss. With the basket muzzle, start with a hungry dog. Place a delectable treat into the open basket and offer it to your dog. He should readily stick his nose into the basket to retrieve the treat. Repeat multiple times until you are sure he is comfortable with this. When he reaches that point, you may start playing with the strap while he is eating out of the basket. This will desensitize him to having the strap manipulated. Eventually, you should be able to buckle the strap behind the ears, at which point, you can continue to give your dog treats through the muzzle wires. This procedure can also be adapted to the nylon fabric muzzle; start with a treat delivered between your fingers placed backwards through the nose opening so that you can entice your dog to move his face forward into the muzzle. Soft dog foods and peanut butter work well for rewarding the wearing of the nylon muzzle. Have your dog wear the muzzle around the house at random times so that the wearing of the muzzle is not always associated with a perceived unpleasant experience.
In case of an emergency, you can make a muzzle out of a long strip of fabric, a shoelace, or panty hose. Place the middle of the tie underneath the dog’s chin. Tie a half hitch knot on top of the muzzle. Bring the ends of the ties underneath the dog’s chin and make an “X” so that the tie ends switch sides. Secure the ties behind the dog’s ears with a knot such as one you would use to tie your shoe.
If your dog can accept a muzzle, he will be able to be examined and treated or groomed more quickly, and with minimal risk to the handler, reducing the stress of the visit for all.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My German Shepherd Dog is terrified when he goes to the veterinary office or to the groomer’s for a bath. I am afraid he is going to bite someone. At home he is a sweetheart. Any suggestions?
Nervous in Camillus
Dear Nervous,
The veterinary office and the grooming salon can be nerve wracking places for your dog because he may be manipulated in ways in which he is not altogether comfortable. One of the best things that you can do is bring your dog to those places for “happy visits” in which he goes into the building, maybe stands on the scale and gets a cookie from a receptionist or assistant, and then leaves, without being poked or prodded. This will help to reduce the amount of anxiety associated with the physical location.
The muzzle is a wonderful tool that can help to prevent a bite by an animal that is scared, painful or aggressive. Typical muzzles that can be purchased include a nylon fabric type and a basket type. The basket muzzle has the advantage in that the dog can pant easily. Also, they can learn to dunk the whole muzzle in a bowl of water to drink, and treats can easily be delivered through between the wires.
You can train your dog to accept a muzzle easily. This will allow you to put the muzzle on in situations in which he might need to have one on with minimal fuss. With the basket muzzle, start with a hungry dog. Place a delectable treat into the open basket and offer it to your dog. He should readily stick his nose into the basket to retrieve the treat. Repeat multiple times until you are sure he is comfortable with this. When he reaches that point, you may start playing with the strap while he is eating out of the basket. This will desensitize him to having the strap manipulated. Eventually, you should be able to buckle the strap behind the ears, at which point, you can continue to give your dog treats through the muzzle wires. This procedure can also be adapted to the nylon fabric muzzle; start with a treat delivered between your fingers placed backwards through the nose opening so that you can entice your dog to move his face forward into the muzzle. Soft dog foods and peanut butter work well for rewarding the wearing of the nylon muzzle. Have your dog wear the muzzle around the house at random times so that the wearing of the muzzle is not always associated with a perceived unpleasant experience.
In case of an emergency, you can make a muzzle out of a long strip of fabric, a shoelace, or panty hose. Place the middle of the tie underneath the dog’s chin. Tie a half hitch knot on top of the muzzle. Bring the ends of the ties underneath the dog’s chin and make an “X” so that the tie ends switch sides. Secure the ties behind the dog’s ears with a knot such as one you would use to tie your shoe.
If your dog can accept a muzzle, he will be able to be examined and treated or groomed more quickly, and with minimal risk to the handler, reducing the stress of the visit for all.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
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