Monday, July 27, 2009

Body Parts are not Toys

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 22 December 2008.]

Dear Dr. Lee,

My 5 month-old Bearded Collie, Lillith, keeps grabbing my hand with her teeth. She does not bite down, but it is annoying. She does it when we are playing, and even if I’m just taking her for a walk, she’ll leap up and grab it. Thank goodness she does not have many puppy teeth left. An even bigger problem is that she is now doing this with my guests. I am embarrassed and a little afraid someone might sue me, thinking she bit someone aggressively. What can I do?

Sincerely,
Mouthed in Manlius


Dear Mouthed,

Mouthing is a common behavior exhibited by puppies, particularly those who are exploring their world through their mouths or teething. It is, however, not an acceptable behavior when it is applied to any human body part. Potential consequences can range from mere annoyance, to fear, anger, a potential lawsuit and loss of homeowner’s insurance.

When a new dog enters your house, you should immediately make it a rule that no canine teeth touch human skin. Any touch of teeth to skin can be construed as a bite. Most dogs mouth humans because they want to either initiate play or escalate the level of play. To teach the new rule, consider the following recommendations:

• Do not offer your body parts for your dog to mouth, even if it is just to keep him out of trouble. If you have a puppy who is going through the oral stage, offer an acceptable alternative for him to chew (a toy).
• If you see your dog leaping at you to grab your hand, tuck your hands under your armpits and withdraw attention until your dog can ask for your attention in a more acceptable manner.
• If your dog sneaks up on you and puts his teeth on you, yip (as if you were a hurt puppy), act like the teeth burned you, and shun the dog for 30 seconds (no looking, speaking to, or touching). In this manner, you let the dog know that he hurt you, and you fail to give him what he really wanted (start of or more intense play).
• If your dog chooses to interact with you with a toy instead of mouthing you, be sure to reward that – it is a behavior we DO want.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Desensitization to the Veterinary Exam

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 15 December 2008.]

Dear Dr. Lee,

My Siberian Husky almost bit her veterinarian last week when we went in for a routine physical examination. He was trying to feel her abdomen, and she turned around an tried to nip him. I was terribly embarrassed, because while this is the first time she tried to bite, she has always been touchy about her belly, even as a puppy (in the past, she’s bared her teeth and growled). We eventually used a muzzle and the veterinarian was able to determine there was nothing obviously wrong with her. Other than getting her used to a muzzle, what can I do to help this situation?

Concerned in Cato


Dear Concerned,

I certainly appreciate your dedication to your dog’s well being. The physical examination is the foundation of good medical care for any pet, and in order for that to happen, the pet needs to be at least somewhat cooperative.

Desensitization to the veterinary exam should be done with all puppies and kittens, although there is no reason why you cannot do this with an adult dog as well.

Starting with her head, lift up her lips and inspect her teeth. Be sure to pull her lips back to look at her molars, too. Open her mouth and look at the roof of her mouth and her tongue. Peer into her ears, and massage them, and briefly insert a finger into the ear canal if it will fit. Massage her all over, including her face, neck, back, sides, underneath, upper limbs, lower limbs, tail and feet. Lift the tail, pick up a foot at a time, pinch the toenails. If she is sensitive in any of these areas, back off on the intensity of the touch, and reward her positively (verbal praise, small food treat), for allowing you to slowly increase the pressure and duration of touch in those sensitive areas.

If your dog flops over onto her back while you touch her, that is fine in the beginning, but consider that most of the veterinary exam is done with the dog in an upright position, and you may eventually want to train for that, as well.

Ask the veterinary office if it would be permissible to bring your dog in for a “happy visit” in which she walks into the hospital, walks on the scale, and interacts with some of the staff in a very positive manner. These “happy visits” involve no needles or other painful stimuli, and can teach your dog to be relaxed even in the waiting room.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Boarding anxiety

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 8 December 2008.]

Dear Dr. Lee,

When my 2 dogs, 8 and 6 years old, went to the kennel, they always stayed in the same crate. My 8 year old never minded it, but my 6 year-old was extremely nervous and sometimes wouldn't eat for a couple of days. Two weeks ago, when they were at the kennel, my 8 year-old became ill and had to be euthanized. My question is, we are going away in three weeks and I don't know if my dog will be traumatized going back to the same kennel without my other dog. He never saw the dog after they euthanized her, so the last scent he remembers is her fear. Would it be better to switch kennels, even though the staff know and love him? Or will he be more traumatized going to a new place with new staff and a new routine? Do you feel he will remember everything that happened at the kennel? I'd appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks you so much!

~ Distraught in Syracuse


Dear Distraught,

First, please accept my heartfelt condolences for your tragic loss. This must have been awful for everyone, including you, your six year-old dog, and the kennel personnel. Even if your dog does not remember the details of his last kennel stay, he will no doubt miss your other dog, as she was always there when they were kenneled.

You have multiple options for your dog as far as boarding when you go out of town. It is not unusual for dogs to be nervous when then are kenneled, and this can result in behaviors such as anorexia. If you feel the personnel at the boarding kennel you like and know will treat him well, you can certainly do a test run by boarding him for the day, and seeing how he does. Have them feed him his breakfast and see if he will eat for them, or take treats from them, or both. You may also opt to do this at a new kennel and compare his behaviors at each.

Another option is to hire a house sitter who would be willing to care for your dog as well. This does offer more personalized attention and a familiar and comfortable environment for your dog.

If your dog does not do well in either situation because he is grieving, speak with your veterinarian about the possibility of using a short (3-6 months) course of an anti-anxiety medication to help, and try to get him involved in family activities and exercise as much as possible.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Cat Toy Preference

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 1 December 2008.]

Dear Dr. Lee,

My sister’s cat loves fuzzy mice toys. When I got my new cat from the animal shelter, I bought a half dozen fuzzy mice for him, but he ignores them. Is there something wrong with him?

Puzzled in Palermo


Dear Puzzled,

Cats can have distinct prey preferences, even if they have been indoors all their lives, and this may influence his choice of play toys. Prey preference can fall into the general categories of “bird,” “mouse,” and “bug.”

“Bird” toys have feathers attached to them. Some of them fly through the air (fishing pole type toys). Peacock feathers can be the ultimate “bird” toy. Toys that make chirping sounds also fall into this category.

“Mouse” type toys can be covered with fur. Stuffed animals and balls also fall into this category. These toys move on the ground instead of flying through the air.

“Bug” toys are small and move rapidly. Examples include laser pointers, a string with a knot tied at the end, or a kibble thrown across the floor.

In order to figure out your cat’s toy preference, determine what kind of prey he prefers. If your cat spends time looking out a window, see if you can figure out what captures his attention the most. Is it the bird that lands on the branch nearby, or the bug that flies near the window pane, or the chipmunk in the garden? You can also test your cats preferences by providing toys in different categories sequentially or at the same time, and seeing what your cat chooses.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Interactive Feline Play

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital web site on 24 November 2008.]

Dear Dr. Lee,

I’ve been told by my veterinarian that my cat is too heavy. Other than limiting calories, is there anything else I can do to keep my cat fit? How do you get a cat to do jumping jacks?

Chubbs in Canastota


Dear Chubbs,

I have yet to see a cat do jumping jacks, but there are ways to increase your cat’s activity level, which can result not only in weight control, but enhance the bond with your cat. Planned sessions of interactive play can also result in a cat willing to rest when you do (and thus less inclined to bother you while you’re sleeping), and may decrease play aggression because your play will be in a controlled manner.

Here are some suggestions for play with your cat:

• Fetch – If your cat does not fetch yet, tie a string to his favorite toy, toss the toy, then reel it back in. Eventually, your cat may start bringing the toy back to you himself because he gets rewarded by another toss of the toy.
• Drag a string or a shoelace around the house. To increase interest, you can tie a knot or attach a folded paper fan. You can drag the string up and down areas that your cat is allowed to climb to increase the intensity of his “work out.”
• Ball – If your cat does not know how to play with one, you may need to help him by pushing it yourself first. This is particularly fun on hard surfaces, like hardwood floors or the bathtub. There are treat balls that you can load with kibble or treats that reward the cat for playing with it – as the cat plays with it, food falls out.
• The recall game – with a friend or family member, have your cat run between the two of you and reward with a small food treat each time the cat runs to you.
• Toss – throw a piece of kibble or a treat down a long hallway for your food-motivated cat.
• Hang a toy from a doorknob or the top of the door frame. Jiggle it to make it more interesting.
• Container game – Use an empty paper bag or cardboard box. Cats are naturally curious about these spaces. When he goes in, scratch the outside of the container with your finger and your cat may try to catch your finger through the container wall.
• Movement – make any toy your cat likes more interesting by making it move.
• Laser pointer – many cats will chase the beam for hours. Do not direct the beam into the eyes of people or animals. Do not use this method of play with dogs, as they can develop obsessive compulsive disorder.
• Hide and seek – pretend to hide. As your cat approaches your hiding spot, “reveal” yourself and pet your cat and tell him how brilliant he is.
• Toy rotation – do not leave all your cats toys out at the same time. Hide them and rotate through them – it adds an aspect of novelty, even if it is a toy he has played with before.

Some additional hints: Do not reward bad behavior by playing with your cat – start a play session when your cat is calm. Do not use body parts as toys (see Play Aggression article). Set aside specific times of day for the play sessions so that your cat knows when to anticipate his fun time.


Sincerely,
Dr. Lee


P.S. Next week, how to choose toys for your cat.

Cats on Counters

[This was originally posted to Fairmount Animal Hospital's website on 17 November 2008.]

Dear Dr. Lee,

I absolutely adore my kitten, Max. My mother is having fits because Max jumps up on the kitchen counters to investigate. Mom says that is where she prepares meals, and cats should not be up there. How can I teach Max not to jump up on the counter?

Smitten to the Max in Dewitt


Dear Smitten,

Kittens are normally energetic and inquisitive creatures. It is not surprising Max has discovered that the kitchen counter is an interesting place to be. Thus it is important to keep the counter free of food and potential playthings (i.e., twist ties, plastic bags, etc.) so that he does not have the opportunity to self-reward himself for being up there.
Some cats can be negatively reinforced from certain behaviors by a squirt from a water gun. However, most cats learn to avoid the behavior when the squirt gun is present, and when it is not, they feel at liberty to pursue the behavior because there is no consequence.
There ares battery operated device called Ssscat! and Spray Sentry that can help to reinforce boundaries in a non-painful way, even if you are not present. When the motion sensor is tripped, the device emits a jet of compressed air (hence the name), which startles the cat.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Muzzles

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 10 November 2008.]

Dear Dr. Lee,

My German Shepherd Dog is terrified when he goes to the veterinary office or to the groomer’s for a bath. I am afraid he is going to bite someone. At home he is a sweetheart. Any suggestions?

Nervous in Camillus


Dear Nervous,

The veterinary office and the grooming salon can be nerve wracking places for your dog because he may be manipulated in ways in which he is not altogether comfortable. One of the best things that you can do is bring your dog to those places for “happy visits” in which he goes into the building, maybe stands on the scale and gets a cookie from a receptionist or assistant, and then leaves, without being poked or prodded. This will help to reduce the amount of anxiety associated with the physical location.

The muzzle is a wonderful tool that can help to prevent a bite by an animal that is scared, painful or aggressive. Typical muzzles that can be purchased include a nylon fabric type and a basket type. The basket muzzle has the advantage in that the dog can pant easily. Also, they can learn to dunk the whole muzzle in a bowl of water to drink, and treats can easily be delivered through between the wires.





You can train your dog to accept a muzzle easily. This will allow you to put the muzzle on in situations in which he might need to have one on with minimal fuss. With the basket muzzle, start with a hungry dog. Place a delectable treat into the open basket and offer it to your dog. He should readily stick his nose into the basket to retrieve the treat. Repeat multiple times until you are sure he is comfortable with this. When he reaches that point, you may start playing with the strap while he is eating out of the basket. This will desensitize him to having the strap manipulated. Eventually, you should be able to buckle the strap behind the ears, at which point, you can continue to give your dog treats through the muzzle wires. This procedure can also be adapted to the nylon fabric muzzle; start with a treat delivered between your fingers placed backwards through the nose opening so that you can entice your dog to move his face forward into the muzzle. Soft dog foods and peanut butter work well for rewarding the wearing of the nylon muzzle. Have your dog wear the muzzle around the house at random times so that the wearing of the muzzle is not always associated with a perceived unpleasant experience.

In case of an emergency, you can make a muzzle out of a long strip of fabric, a shoelace, or panty hose. Place the middle of the tie underneath the dog’s chin. Tie a half hitch knot on top of the muzzle. Bring the ends of the ties underneath the dog’s chin and make an “X” so that the tie ends switch sides. Secure the ties behind the dog’s ears with a knot such as one you would use to tie your shoe.

If your dog can accept a muzzle, he will be able to be examined and treated or groomed more quickly, and with minimal risk to the handler, reducing the stress of the visit for all.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Monday, June 1, 2009

Feline Spraying

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 3 November 2008.]


Dear Dr. Lee

I love my cats (I have 9 of them!), but one of them is spraying urine around my house, and it stinks! What can I do? I’d like to try to keep them all indoor-only, especially since I live by a busy road.

Stinky in Solvay


Dear Stinky,

Feline urine spraying is a normal behavior in both male and female cats, yet is is quite undesirable when humans share a residence with their cats. Spraying is used as a way to mark territory. The main offenders tend to be intact male cats, so if your male cat has not been neutered yet, consider doing so as soon as possible.

Be certain that the problem is spraying versus housesoiling (not using the litter box). Spraying tends to be on vertical surfaces and involves a small amount of urine. If you are not sure, consult with your veterinarian, who may want to start with a medical workup of the problem. If a medical problem has been ruled out, consider what might be the primary cause of the spraying.

Feral cats can have surprisingly large territories. If you have multiple cats in your house, it may be that your spraying cat may be vying for more territory versus your other cats. Increased density of cats in the house can also increase stress amongst the cats, and the chance of one or more spraying in response goes up.

If you have stray cats that roam close to your house, and your cat can see them, spraying near windows and doors can occur as a “warning” to the strange cats that this territory is already occupied. Blocking access to windows can help with this. Also discourage stray cats from entering your property; do not feed them, and consider the use of aversives (www.cat-repellant.info).

Treat all the urine-sprayed surfaces with an enzymatic cleaner to remove the odor. Consider the use of Feliway (also marketed as Comfort Zone for cats), which is a synthetic feline facial pheromone analogue. Feliway can help to reduce overall stress in your cats, and is available in a pump spray and as an electronic plug-in diffuser. Do not mix the enzymatic cleaner with the Feliway because the enzymes will degrade the Feliway, too.

Consider reducing the number of cats in your household, or at least vow not to add any more. A behaviorist may be able to identify other sources of stress experienced by your cats, and suggest behavior modification exercises that can help to alleviate it.

Also consider use of anti-anxiety medication to help reduce your cat’s stress. Examples include amitriptylene, busprione, clomipramine and fluoxetine. None of these medications are labeled for use in cats, and use of one or more of them would be off-label, but I have found them to be effective. Your veterinarian may want to do baseline bloodwork before starting the medication and monitoring bloodwork while your cat is on the medication to ensure his continuing health.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Fencing

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 27 October 2008.]


Dear Dr. Lee,

My neighbors keep calling my town dog control because my Jack Russell Terrier keeps wandering out of my yard. Do you have any suggestions for how to keep him on my property so I don’t keep getting in trouble?

Escapee in Camillus


Dear Escapee,

There are multiple methods used to confine a dog to your property. These include tie-out stakes and overhead runners to which a line is attached. The other end of the line clips onto your dog’s flat collar or harness. Choke chains should not be used with a tie-out line due to risk of neck trauma. Prong collars should not be used as well because they can pop open. The advantages to tie-outs are that it is relatively inexpensive and easy to set up. The disadvantages include tangling around yard landscaping, injury from the line wrapping around legs, and slipping of the collar. Some dogs can exhibit increased aggression when tied up.

Fencing can provide a barrier to keep a dog safely in a yard while allowing a dog to run free without being tied to anything. Physical fencing comes in several varieties, including stockade and chain link. Stockade fencing can be a bit harder for dogs to climb and has the advantage of blocking the dog’s view of neighborhood activity, which can reduce nuisance barking, but is more expensive than chain link.

Invisible fencing is an option for owners who live in neighborhoods that prohibit fencing or who do not want to erect a physical fence on their property for aesthetic reasons. Invisible fencing systems consist of a buried wire that runs along the perimeter of desired dog area that is connected to a power source, and transmitter collars worn by each dog. As the dog with the collar approaches the perimeter wire, a warning signal is emitted, and if the dog crosses the perimeter, an electronic shock is delivered to the dog. These systems do require training of each dog so the dog understands what the warning signal and the punishment shock are for. Disadvantages of these systems include expense, potential for injury from the shock collar, failure of the fence during a power outage or if the collar battery runs low, and the fact that this fencing system will not keep unwanted animals or people out of your yard.

None of these fencing systems will confine every dog. Some dogs learn to climb or vault over fences, some dig under them, some chew through them. Dogs that break through an invisible fence to chase prey will often refuse to come back into the yard because they know they would be shocked on the way into the yard, too.

Consider your dog’s personality and activity level before deciding on a way to keep your dog in your yard.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Gentle Leader


[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 20 October 2008.]


Dear Dr. Lee,

My Golden Retriever, Indy, is 10 months old. He’s grown so much since I got him, and now he is pulling me whenever I try to walk him. I’m afraid I’m going to end up looking like Linus at the end of his blanket when Snoopy is running with it. Help!

Sincerely,
Indy’s Mom


Dear Indy’s Mom,

If you have not taken Indy to an obedience class yet, I would highly recommend starting with that.

One tool that can help with pulling is a head halter called the Gentle Leader (see picture above, www.premier.com ). This tool consists of a nose loop and a neck strap. The fit of the neck strap is quite snug and sits above the larynx, so no pressure is ever put on the larynx or trachea. The nose loop may at first glance look like a muzzle, but when properly fit, the dog can open his mouth to eat, drink, and play fetch. The leash is attached to the ring at the bottom of the nose loop.

The Gentle Leader is a training device that operates without the use of pain, as the choke and prong collars do. When it is worn, if the dog pulls too far forward, the nose loop tightens and pressure is applied to the top of the dog’s muzzle and to the back of the neck. The dog walker should not jerk the leash – instead, gentle backwards pressure is recommended to correct the dog for pulling. As soon as the dog stops pulling, the pressure on the muzzle is released.

Dogs have a natural reflex to oppose pressure placed upon them – that is why they lean into petting – and why they lean into collars and harnesses when walking. The Gentle Leader puts pressure elsewhere when the dog pulls, so the natural tendency to pull is eliminated.

Gentle Leader headcollars come in a variety of sizes and colors. For dogs with short noses (Pugs, Boxers, Shih Tzus, etc.) the Snoot Loop (www.SnootLoop.com) may be a good alternative.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Housetraining dogs

[This was originally posted on the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 13 October 2008.]


Dear Dr. Lee,

My Mom has an eight year-old Bichon that urinates in the house. Even when she lets him out, the minute she brings him in and leaves the room, he urinates. My Mom is beside herself and does not know what to do. This dog was a rescue, so we are wondering if maybe something happened in the dog’s past that makes him do that. Any help you can give me so I can help my Mom would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,
Stepsister of NotHousebroken


Dear Stepsister,

My first recommendation is to bring a first-of-the-morning urine sample to your veterinarian to rule out a medical problem.

I would also like to know if this dog actually urinates outside. Perhaps he has never been taught that outside is the desirable place to urinate. If this is the case, he may need to be retrained, starting from the very beginning. I highly recommend crate training as a method for housebreaking dogs (and puppies). The crate should only be large enough for the dog to lie down comfortably, and not so big that he can eliminate on one side and rest on the other side. Most dogs do not want to soil in their resting area, so this method trains their bladder to hold it. When you feel you dog might need to urinate (i.e. after waking from a nap), take him outside to his “place.” If he urinates, he can come back inside and spend some play time with you; if he does not, he goes back into the crate for 15 minutes, after which, you take him outside again. It may be helpful to place some urine-soaked paper towels or newspapers to the area in which you prefer him to use as his toilet so that it smells like a toilet.

It is important that your dog not be allowed to be out of your sight, lest he learn that he can urinate anywhere without consequence as long as you are not in view. You can keep your dog with you by using gates to block off access to out-of-sight rooms or using a leash to tether him to you (your waist, belt loop) or a doorknob or a heavy piece of furniture. If you are not able to monitor your dog’s behavior, put him back in his crate with a treat.

It can be helpful to teach your dog to eliminate on command. To train this command (Hurry up! Get busy! Go potty!), whenever you take your dog outside, repeat the command of your choice when he starts to exhibit behavior that precedes elimination – these behaviors can vary from dog to dog, but can include circling, pacing, and sniffing. Be sure to give verbal praise when your dog does ask you ask!

If your dog does urinate inside, be sure to clean the soiled area with an enzymatic cleaner. The enzymes degrade the molecules that make the odor. Dogs have an exquisitely sensitive sense of smell, and even if you can’t smell it, your dog might, and if it smells like his toilet, he might use it as his toilet.

Lastly, do not punish your dog for urinating in the house. Rubbing a dog’s nose into soiled areas will only make him anxious because if it happened more than 5 seconds ago, they will have no recollection that they did it, and therefore have no idea why he is being punished. In fact, it may make him more likely to avoid eliminating in your presence. If you do happen to catch him in the act of urinating, interrupt the behavior (screech, pick him up, clap your hands), take him outside, and praise him if he finishes the job outside.

Housesoiling can be a frustrating problem, but with some consistent training, most dogs can be taught to eliminate outside.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Puppy Socialization

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 5 October 2008.]


Dear Dr. Lee.

I just got my new Miniature Pinscher puppy, Jellybean, from the breeder. The breeder did recommend taking Jellybean to puppy classes, but I’m afraid that she’ll get diseases from the other puppies. I also don’t want her to get stepped on by the bigger puppies. What do you think?

Sincerely,
Jelly’s Mom in Jordan


Dear Jelly’s Mom,

Congratulations on your new family member!

I highly recommend you start your dog in a puppy class while the dog is within the first three months of life. The first three months in a puppy’s live are crucial in terms of exposing the puppy to other dogs, people, environments and stimuli – this is a time in which your puppy can be exposed to these new things without excessive fear or anxiety. Lack of this kind of socialization and exposure to new things can lead to behavior problems later in life, such as fear and aggression. Behavior problems are the leading cause for a young dog to be surrendered to a shelter. The relative risk of deadly, infectious disease is relatively small compared to the risk of a behavior problem developing due lack of proper socialization.

For more information on the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviorists position on early puppy socialization, go to http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/puppy%20socialization.pdf

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

To Punish or Not to Punish?

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hosptial website on 28 September 2008.]


Dear Dr. Lee,

My husband and I just got a young, rescue German Shorthair Pointer. He is so sweet, but we are having a problem with him coming to us when called when he is outside. All he wants to do is sniff. My husband wants to get an electronic collar for him. I think that would be mean. What do you think?

Sincerely,
WannaBNice in Nedrow


Dear WannaBNice,

Electronic collars can be used to train dogs using a process called negative reinforcement. When the collar shocks a dog, it is painful and undesirable, so theoretically, the dog should do all he can to avoid the negative stimulus. The problem with electronic collars is that they require exquisite timing, else the dog may not understand what he is being punished for, and over time, mistimed punishments can create anxiety, fear and confusion. Also, the dog needs to understand just what he is being punished for, so if your dog does not understand a “come” command in the first place, the painful shock certainly will not help the situation.

In general, I recommend training with positive reinforcement (rewarding behaviors you do want your dog to exhibit) and negative punishment (removing something the dog wants to decrease the chance the undesirable behavior will occur again). For example, if I ask my dog to “come” and he does, he gets a yummy treat, and if he does not, the treat goes away (I pocket it, I give it to another, well-behaved dog, or, if I find it edible, I eat it). A “come” command can easily be trained by having the dog on a leash and flat collar. Start with small distances in a relatively distraction-free environment, and gradually increase the distance and distraction level as your dog progresses. The reward can be a small food treat, verbal praise, petting, play with a toy, or a combination of these.

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has generated a position statement regarding punishment which states that punitive methods and tools (i.e., choke collar, prong collar, electronic collar, or other physical forms of punishment) should never be used initially in training. It also states that if such methods are offered, the handler of the dog should be made fully aware of possible negative consequences that can result. The actual position statement can be found at http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/Combined_Punishment_Statements.pdf .

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Play Aggression in Cats

[This was originally posted on the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 21 September 2008.]


Dear Dr. Lee,

My 7 month-old kitten Callie attacks my hands and feet – she scratches and bites them. I have multiple scrapes and scars on my hands. I’ve had her since she was a teeny baby, and while I could handle this back then, she’s bigger and stronger now. What can I do to discourage this behavior?

Scratched Up in Cicero


Dear Scratched,

Inappropriate play is often seen in cats who are orphaned early, and who never learned to control the intensity of their play. Cats who play aggressively can do serious damage.

Use a device to dissuade your cat from its exuberant behavior (for example, water pistol, air horn, fog horn) as the cat first begins to show the signs of inappropriate play to stop the behavior. When your cat acts wonderfully, reward that good behavior with gentle praise, soft petting and massage. Any time the cat plays appropriately (no teeth or unsheathed claws), reward the cat with love, praise, attention, appropriate play and kitty treats.

You should NOT use your hands to play aggressively with these cats. Your kitten should not be taught to follow your hand or foot and pounce on it. Encouraging the cat to stalk human body parts will only exacerbate the problem. Aggressive corrections are also discouraged.

Any time your cat accidentally scratches or bites a person, that person should act horrified and withdraw attention from the cat. There is no need to physically punish the cat. If the cat is young, blowing in its nose can be sufficient to startle it.

Increasing the amount of aerobic exercise your cat gets can improve the problem as well. Interactive play is often the best source of exercise, whether it be with you or with another cat.

Cats can be taught that it is acceptable to play roughly with toys, but not with people. Appropriate toys include furry mice that can be thrown for the cat to chase or fetch, and cat dancers, in which a feather or similar enticing plaything is attached to a string and can be dangled from a safe distance from teeth and claws.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Nothing In Life is Free

[This was originally posted on the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 14 September 2008]

Dear Dr. Lee,

My friends all say that my Poodle mix, Spike, is a “little monster.” He jumps all over them when they come over, he steals food right off their plates, barks at them when he doesn’t get his way, and sometimes he will even nip them when he is desperate to play. He does these things to me, too, but I guess I don’t mind as much as my friends. How can I get Spike to be better behaved so I can keep my friends?

Mother of a Monster in Marcellus


Dear Mother,

A well-behaved dog is a product of time and effort in training. I suggest you investigate taking an obedience class in your local area, or working with a trainer privately. Without basic training and consistent treatment at home, a dog can become confused about how to ask for food, attention and play, and he may start “demanding” these things in ways that are less than desirable for their human companions (and their friends). Many of these dogs run the households they live in.

One thing that you can do to help your situation is to constantly reinforce your position as a kind, benevolent leader of your “pack.” One of the products of domestication of dogs is the loss of their ability to be an effective leader. That means the humans of the household need to fill in the role of pack leader. How can this be achieved?

The Nothing-In-Life-Is-Free program is a powerful method to help establish the humans as the leaders and deference in the dog. Essentially, for everything that your dog likes, your dog has to sit and look at you for it. Dinner? Sit. Go out? Sit. Come back in? Sit. Treat? Sit. Throw the ball for fetch? Sit. Open the crate door? Sit. Get together with your family and come up with a list of “good things” that your dog enjoys. Do not forget to include attention – which means touching, speaking to, or even looking at your dog. Post the list in a place so everyone can see it and be reminded of what items your dog needs to sit for.

What this program actually achieves is the use of motivating situations (see the list you generated) to ask your dog for deference. Dogs primarily use body language to communicate with each other. A sit with a look to you means that your dog acknowledges your leadership status.

With consistency and time, eventually, your dog may automatically sit when he wants something – and your friends might actually come to enjoy and like Spike.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

How to have a happy dog

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital Website on 31 August 2008]


Dear Dr. Lee,

I’m the owner of a one year-old chocolate Lab. She’s driving me nuts! When I get home from work, she charges all over the house, barking and whining. Sometimes I find a chewed sneaker or evidence of counter surfing, too. We have been to puppy class and a basic obedience class and she graduated both. What else can I do?

Nuts in Onondaga


Dear Nuts,

Young dogs often exhibit an overabundance of energy. Sometimes this excess energy can spill over into undesirable behaviors, such as destructive chewing and excessive vocalizations and activity.

One of my favorite mantras in canine behavior is “A tired dog is a happy dog!” A dog who receives adequate amounts of exercise is less likely to exhibit the undesirable behaviors mentioned above. They will be less likely to overgroom, and will be happier and calmer overall. Additionally, multiple studies have shown that dogs in ideal body condition can have a longer life expectancy.

How much exercise your dog can have is largely dependent on your dog’s current body condition, health and age. Please consult your veterinarian for this type of advice specifically regarding your dog.

There are many ways to exercise your dog to suit your own personal activity level and time limitations. Here are some examples:

• Leash walks around your neighborhood with you or a dog walker
• Jogging or biking with you
• Fetch with a Frisbee or ball
• Play groups with other dogs at a dog park or doggie daycare
• Obedience or agility class
• Swimming
• Toys that reward the dog for playing with them, such as the Buster® Cube, the Kong® toy, and the Busy Buddy™ toys
• Chewing – please ask your veterinarian what toys or chew treats are appropriate for your dog
• Toy on a whip – attach a piece of fur (fake or real) or a ball to the end of a lunge whip – you can stand in place, and manipulate the whip so the toy flicks from side to side and around – while your dog runs circles around you.

Get out there and play and exercise with your dog – chances are you’ll both enjoy the shared activity and each other.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Destructive Scratching

[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 7 September 2008]


Dear Dr. Lee,

I adopted a cat from the SPCA two months ago. I love this cat, but he is ruining my furniture! The arms of my couch are shredded. Is there anything I can do short of declawing him?

Sincerely, Floored (because that’s where I’ll be sitting soon) in Camillus


Dear Floored,

Destructive scratching can cause considerable damage to household furniture, carpets and walls. Scent marking is a natural behavior in cats. Cats do have scent glands in their paw pads, so when they scratch, they leave a territorial mark. Scratching functions to remove the dead outer layer of claws, and can be part of stretching. Scratching also provides exercise for the cat.

Consider what your cat likes to scratch, and try to get a scratching post of that material. Common substrates include carpet, sisal rope, cardboard (may be impregnated with catnip). Your cat may also enjoy scratching at the bark on a large piece of firewood.

Also consider what orientation your cat prefers to scratch in. Some cats prefer to scratch on a vertical surface, some on a horizontal surface. Be sure the scratching post you provide caters to this preference.

Initially, place the scratching post near the location of destructive scratching. Reward your cat for interacting, then scratching the post. Rewards could consist of verbal or physical praise, or a small food treat.

Other alternatives include regular pedicures to keep the claws short. Aerobic exercise through interactive play with you or toys may help to burn excess energy that otherwise might be spent scratching. Another option is to use Soft Paws®, which are vinyl nail caps that are glued to the claws and last for up to six weeks (for more information, visit http://www.softpaws.com/ ).

If none of these options help, you could consider the declaw surgery. I think it is better for your cat to have a happy home and be declawed, than not have a home at all.

Sincerely,
Dr. Lee

Litter Box Blues

[This was originally posted on the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 24 August 2008]


Dear Dr. Lee,

Help! My cat is peeing outside the litter box! What can I do?

- Stinky House in Syracuse


Dear Stinky,

The number one cause of relinquishment of cats to a shelter is house soiling. Here are some ideas that may help:

- Rule out a medical problem. If your cat has not done this previously, try to collect a urine sample and bring it to your veterinarian for a urinalysis. If you are unable to obtain a sample at home, your veterinarian may be able to get it for you, or hospitalize the cat until it can be done. Other diagnostic tests include baseline bloodwork and imaging (radiographs, ultrasound). If it hurts your cat to urinate in the litter box, your cat may try another location as a toilet (maybe it won’t hurt there).

- Clean all litter boxes once or twice daily. Many cats are reluctant to use a dirty litter box. My favorite human analogy is the rest rooms at a rest stop on an Interstate highway. Do you choose a stall with a dirty toilet or a clean toilet?
The magic number of litter boxes to have in a house is the number of household cats plus one. Some cats will not use a box used by another cat, and some prefer to defecate in one box and urinate in another.

- Make sure your cat likes the litter you are using. Cats are creatures of habit. If you switch to a different type or brand of litter, your cat may not “recognize” it as the litter box. I like fine-grained clumping litter – the waste is easily removed, providing a clean box. If the problems continue, try changing all the litter once weekly, or providing a new litter box that does not smell of urine from years gone by.

- Try to avoid litters with “crystals” that absorb the urine. When liquid hits the crystals, they crystals fizz audibly, and become quite hot to the touch, which can disconcert a cat.

- Other aversive litter box items include litter pan liners and deodorizers (a toilet is not supposed to smell like flowers, to the cat).

- If you are currently using a covered litter pan, try using one that is open. The cover can contain smells that make the box seem “dirty.”

- The self-cleaning litter boxes can be scary to some cats because sometimes they start the cleaning process before the cat is done (human analogy: when the public toilet self-flushes while you are still using it).

- If you have multiple cats, try putting the litter boxes in different locations throughout the household. One of the cats could be acting as a bully, preventing access to the boxes by the victim.

- If you think your cat is marking areas in your house by spraying, that may be a separate issue, which will be covered in another column.

Sincerely, Dr. Lee

Who am I?

I have a B.A. in Biological Science from Goucher College and a M.S. in Neurobiology and Behavior from Cornell University. I am a 2002 graduate of the College of Veterinary Medicine at Cornell University. I was the trainer for the Animal Behavior Clinic for the years I was a student there under the tutelage of Dr. Katherine Houpt, VMD PhD DACVB (chief of service), Dr. Vint Virga, DVM DACVB (resident), and Dr. Tracy Kroll, DVM (resident). As a student, I did an internship with Dr. Amy Marder, VMD and the behavior service at the ASPCA in New York City, as well as an internship with Dr. Houpt.

Since graduation, I have been an associate veterinarian at Fairmount Animal Hospital in Syracuse. I maintain my special interest in veterinary behavior, mostly in dogs and cats. I see a variety of behavior cases in the hospital; at- home visits in Central New York can be arranged. I am a member of the American Veterinary Society of Veterinary Behaviorists.

My primary objective as a veterinarian is to help pets and owners enjoy a more satisfying relationship with each other and maintaining the pet’s health to maintain the pet’s quality of life. Pets have the ability to enrich our lives immensely, and I feel that owners also have a responsibility to enrich their pets’ lives, too.

I have three dogs and a cat. Marcus (MACH Marcus Rochester Lee, CDX MXP MJP RN) is a 13 year-old Brittany who was my inspiration to become a veterinarian. He recently retired from agility and obedience. Whiskey (CH Top Shelf’s Crown Royal MX MXJ MXF AD) is a 5 year-old Brittany who is actively competing in agility at local and national levels. We are also starting some formal obedience training and hope to compete in that venue someday. Nutmeg (AKA Meg) is a former research cat from a Fat Cat Study at Cornell. Her primary life objectives are food and belly rubs. New to the household is baby Journey (Millette's Don't Stop Believin'). He's just a pup and learning how to be a good dog.