Dear Dr. Lee,
My 4 year old yellow lab, Kenny, is a beloved family member, but he does have one annoying vice. He eats his own stool! He especially likes it when it is frozen, and sometimes brings his "snack" into the house. This is beyond disgusting - what can I do about this?
Ken's Fans in Bridgeport
Dear Ken's Fans,
Coprophagia, the oral consumption of feces, is a normal canine behavior that is not very acceptable by human standards. Coprophagia is not an indicator that a dog is being fed a substandard diet or has digestive problems. It is thought that this behavior was one inherited from wild canine ancestors who did not always have access to regular nutrition, and needed to scavenge to stay alive.
The best way to prevent coprophagy is to pick up stool in the dog's yard as soon as it is deposited. This will deny the dog the opportunity to eat his own, or his housemates feces. If out walking in public areas, keep your dog on a shorter leash so that you can prevent his contact with the feces of other dogs whose owners do not pick up after them (shame on them!). Another technique is to place a muzzle on the dog before going outside to inhibit stool consumption.
Other commonly suggested methods include using a powdered food additive (Forbid), mixing meat tenderizer, cottage cheese or pineapple with food, or lacing already deposited stool with cayenne pepper or hot sauce. While these additives do make the stool distasteful, the most persistantly coprophagic dogs will be able to smell which stools are "doctored" and which are not, thus know which piles are less distasteful to consume.
If your dog consumes the stool of other animals, monthly broad-spectrum deworming becomes especially important for the health of the dog, and to keep him from shedding intestinal parasite eggs that could potentially infect the humans he shares his house with. This can be acheived through monthly, year-round administration of heartworm preventatives such as Sentinel, Interceptor, Heartguard Plus, or Revolution.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Update: Destructive Scratching solution
This is a follow up to the post "Destructive Scratching" that was posted in June 2009.
I have recently come upon a new interactive device meant for cats. It is called Pavlov's Cat Scratch Feeder, and it consists of a scratching post that holds dry treats or cat food. When the cat uses the scratching post, some food is automatically dispensed, and the cat is rewarded for scratching in an appropriate place! Wow!
I have recently come upon a new interactive device meant for cats. It is called Pavlov's Cat Scratch Feeder, and it consists of a scratching post that holds dry treats or cat food. When the cat uses the scratching post, some food is automatically dispensed, and the cat is rewarded for scratching in an appropriate place! Wow!
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Reducing the stress of cat transport
Since Syracuse is a college town, I have had several college students and professionals come in for health examinations because they are taking a cat home for the summer, or they are moving to another part of the country. One of the most frequently asked questions is "can I sedate my cat for travel?"
Sedation of felines for transportation is not particularly desirable, and some sedatives can cause blood pressure changes that can be dangerous during transport. A cat owner who has advanced notice of travel plans can help the cat travel without the use of sedatives, and thus more safely by acclimating their cat to the carrier and to traveling (at least in a car). Here are some tips that were published in AAHA's Trends magazine this past March:
1. Socialize cats and kittens to the carrier and to traveling.
- Keep the carrier out and accessible in the home.
- Make and maintain a positive association with the carrier by making it a comfortable resting, feeding, or play location.
- Take the cat in the carrier on periodic car rides with positive experiences (i.e., not just to the veterinary office).
2. Withhold food prior to travel to help prevent motion sickness. It may also make the cat more interested in treats at the end destination.
3. Use Feliway on and in the carrier on a routine basis and just prior to transportation. Feliway is available from veterinarians, and is also marketed at major pet stores as Comfort Zone for Cats. Placing a worn item of clothing in the carrier from a favorite person can also help to make the carrier more welcoming.
4. Provide cover or hiding options in or over the carrier during transportation. A blanket or towel draped over the carrier can work very well.
If the cat owner can take the time and make the effort to acclimate the cat to travel, it can be a better experience for all.
Sedation of felines for transportation is not particularly desirable, and some sedatives can cause blood pressure changes that can be dangerous during transport. A cat owner who has advanced notice of travel plans can help the cat travel without the use of sedatives, and thus more safely by acclimating their cat to the carrier and to traveling (at least in a car). Here are some tips that were published in AAHA's Trends magazine this past March:
1. Socialize cats and kittens to the carrier and to traveling.
- Keep the carrier out and accessible in the home.
- Make and maintain a positive association with the carrier by making it a comfortable resting, feeding, or play location.
- Take the cat in the carrier on periodic car rides with positive experiences (i.e., not just to the veterinary office).
2. Withhold food prior to travel to help prevent motion sickness. It may also make the cat more interested in treats at the end destination.
3. Use Feliway on and in the carrier on a routine basis and just prior to transportation. Feliway is available from veterinarians, and is also marketed at major pet stores as Comfort Zone for Cats. Placing a worn item of clothing in the carrier from a favorite person can also help to make the carrier more welcoming.
4. Provide cover or hiding options in or over the carrier during transportation. A blanket or towel draped over the carrier can work very well.
If the cat owner can take the time and make the effort to acclimate the cat to travel, it can be a better experience for all.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Body Parts are not Toys
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 22 December 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My 5 month-old Bearded Collie, Lillith, keeps grabbing my hand with her teeth. She does not bite down, but it is annoying. She does it when we are playing, and even if I’m just taking her for a walk, she’ll leap up and grab it. Thank goodness she does not have many puppy teeth left. An even bigger problem is that she is now doing this with my guests. I am embarrassed and a little afraid someone might sue me, thinking she bit someone aggressively. What can I do?
Sincerely,
Mouthed in Manlius
Dear Mouthed,
Mouthing is a common behavior exhibited by puppies, particularly those who are exploring their world through their mouths or teething. It is, however, not an acceptable behavior when it is applied to any human body part. Potential consequences can range from mere annoyance, to fear, anger, a potential lawsuit and loss of homeowner’s insurance.
When a new dog enters your house, you should immediately make it a rule that no canine teeth touch human skin. Any touch of teeth to skin can be construed as a bite. Most dogs mouth humans because they want to either initiate play or escalate the level of play. To teach the new rule, consider the following recommendations:
• Do not offer your body parts for your dog to mouth, even if it is just to keep him out of trouble. If you have a puppy who is going through the oral stage, offer an acceptable alternative for him to chew (a toy).
• If you see your dog leaping at you to grab your hand, tuck your hands under your armpits and withdraw attention until your dog can ask for your attention in a more acceptable manner.
• If your dog sneaks up on you and puts his teeth on you, yip (as if you were a hurt puppy), act like the teeth burned you, and shun the dog for 30 seconds (no looking, speaking to, or touching). In this manner, you let the dog know that he hurt you, and you fail to give him what he really wanted (start of or more intense play).
• If your dog chooses to interact with you with a toy instead of mouthing you, be sure to reward that – it is a behavior we DO want.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My 5 month-old Bearded Collie, Lillith, keeps grabbing my hand with her teeth. She does not bite down, but it is annoying. She does it when we are playing, and even if I’m just taking her for a walk, she’ll leap up and grab it. Thank goodness she does not have many puppy teeth left. An even bigger problem is that she is now doing this with my guests. I am embarrassed and a little afraid someone might sue me, thinking she bit someone aggressively. What can I do?
Sincerely,
Mouthed in Manlius
Dear Mouthed,
Mouthing is a common behavior exhibited by puppies, particularly those who are exploring their world through their mouths or teething. It is, however, not an acceptable behavior when it is applied to any human body part. Potential consequences can range from mere annoyance, to fear, anger, a potential lawsuit and loss of homeowner’s insurance.
When a new dog enters your house, you should immediately make it a rule that no canine teeth touch human skin. Any touch of teeth to skin can be construed as a bite. Most dogs mouth humans because they want to either initiate play or escalate the level of play. To teach the new rule, consider the following recommendations:
• Do not offer your body parts for your dog to mouth, even if it is just to keep him out of trouble. If you have a puppy who is going through the oral stage, offer an acceptable alternative for him to chew (a toy).
• If you see your dog leaping at you to grab your hand, tuck your hands under your armpits and withdraw attention until your dog can ask for your attention in a more acceptable manner.
• If your dog sneaks up on you and puts his teeth on you, yip (as if you were a hurt puppy), act like the teeth burned you, and shun the dog for 30 seconds (no looking, speaking to, or touching). In this manner, you let the dog know that he hurt you, and you fail to give him what he really wanted (start of or more intense play).
• If your dog chooses to interact with you with a toy instead of mouthing you, be sure to reward that – it is a behavior we DO want.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Desensitization to the Veterinary Exam
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 15 December 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My Siberian Husky almost bit her veterinarian last week when we went in for a routine physical examination. He was trying to feel her abdomen, and she turned around an tried to nip him. I was terribly embarrassed, because while this is the first time she tried to bite, she has always been touchy about her belly, even as a puppy (in the past, she’s bared her teeth and growled). We eventually used a muzzle and the veterinarian was able to determine there was nothing obviously wrong with her. Other than getting her used to a muzzle, what can I do to help this situation?
Concerned in Cato
Dear Concerned,
I certainly appreciate your dedication to your dog’s well being. The physical examination is the foundation of good medical care for any pet, and in order for that to happen, the pet needs to be at least somewhat cooperative.
Desensitization to the veterinary exam should be done with all puppies and kittens, although there is no reason why you cannot do this with an adult dog as well.
Starting with her head, lift up her lips and inspect her teeth. Be sure to pull her lips back to look at her molars, too. Open her mouth and look at the roof of her mouth and her tongue. Peer into her ears, and massage them, and briefly insert a finger into the ear canal if it will fit. Massage her all over, including her face, neck, back, sides, underneath, upper limbs, lower limbs, tail and feet. Lift the tail, pick up a foot at a time, pinch the toenails. If she is sensitive in any of these areas, back off on the intensity of the touch, and reward her positively (verbal praise, small food treat), for allowing you to slowly increase the pressure and duration of touch in those sensitive areas.
If your dog flops over onto her back while you touch her, that is fine in the beginning, but consider that most of the veterinary exam is done with the dog in an upright position, and you may eventually want to train for that, as well.
Ask the veterinary office if it would be permissible to bring your dog in for a “happy visit” in which she walks into the hospital, walks on the scale, and interacts with some of the staff in a very positive manner. These “happy visits” involve no needles or other painful stimuli, and can teach your dog to be relaxed even in the waiting room.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My Siberian Husky almost bit her veterinarian last week when we went in for a routine physical examination. He was trying to feel her abdomen, and she turned around an tried to nip him. I was terribly embarrassed, because while this is the first time she tried to bite, she has always been touchy about her belly, even as a puppy (in the past, she’s bared her teeth and growled). We eventually used a muzzle and the veterinarian was able to determine there was nothing obviously wrong with her. Other than getting her used to a muzzle, what can I do to help this situation?
Concerned in Cato
Dear Concerned,
I certainly appreciate your dedication to your dog’s well being. The physical examination is the foundation of good medical care for any pet, and in order for that to happen, the pet needs to be at least somewhat cooperative.
Desensitization to the veterinary exam should be done with all puppies and kittens, although there is no reason why you cannot do this with an adult dog as well.
Starting with her head, lift up her lips and inspect her teeth. Be sure to pull her lips back to look at her molars, too. Open her mouth and look at the roof of her mouth and her tongue. Peer into her ears, and massage them, and briefly insert a finger into the ear canal if it will fit. Massage her all over, including her face, neck, back, sides, underneath, upper limbs, lower limbs, tail and feet. Lift the tail, pick up a foot at a time, pinch the toenails. If she is sensitive in any of these areas, back off on the intensity of the touch, and reward her positively (verbal praise, small food treat), for allowing you to slowly increase the pressure and duration of touch in those sensitive areas.
If your dog flops over onto her back while you touch her, that is fine in the beginning, but consider that most of the veterinary exam is done with the dog in an upright position, and you may eventually want to train for that, as well.
Ask the veterinary office if it would be permissible to bring your dog in for a “happy visit” in which she walks into the hospital, walks on the scale, and interacts with some of the staff in a very positive manner. These “happy visits” involve no needles or other painful stimuli, and can teach your dog to be relaxed even in the waiting room.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Boarding anxiety
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 8 December 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
When my 2 dogs, 8 and 6 years old, went to the kennel, they always stayed in the same crate. My 8 year old never minded it, but my 6 year-old was extremely nervous and sometimes wouldn't eat for a couple of days. Two weeks ago, when they were at the kennel, my 8 year-old became ill and had to be euthanized. My question is, we are going away in three weeks and I don't know if my dog will be traumatized going back to the same kennel without my other dog. He never saw the dog after they euthanized her, so the last scent he remembers is her fear. Would it be better to switch kennels, even though the staff know and love him? Or will he be more traumatized going to a new place with new staff and a new routine? Do you feel he will remember everything that happened at the kennel? I'd appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks you so much!
~ Distraught in Syracuse
Dear Distraught,
First, please accept my heartfelt condolences for your tragic loss. This must have been awful for everyone, including you, your six year-old dog, and the kennel personnel. Even if your dog does not remember the details of his last kennel stay, he will no doubt miss your other dog, as she was always there when they were kenneled.
You have multiple options for your dog as far as boarding when you go out of town. It is not unusual for dogs to be nervous when then are kenneled, and this can result in behaviors such as anorexia. If you feel the personnel at the boarding kennel you like and know will treat him well, you can certainly do a test run by boarding him for the day, and seeing how he does. Have them feed him his breakfast and see if he will eat for them, or take treats from them, or both. You may also opt to do this at a new kennel and compare his behaviors at each.
Another option is to hire a house sitter who would be willing to care for your dog as well. This does offer more personalized attention and a familiar and comfortable environment for your dog.
If your dog does not do well in either situation because he is grieving, speak with your veterinarian about the possibility of using a short (3-6 months) course of an anti-anxiety medication to help, and try to get him involved in family activities and exercise as much as possible.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
When my 2 dogs, 8 and 6 years old, went to the kennel, they always stayed in the same crate. My 8 year old never minded it, but my 6 year-old was extremely nervous and sometimes wouldn't eat for a couple of days. Two weeks ago, when they were at the kennel, my 8 year-old became ill and had to be euthanized. My question is, we are going away in three weeks and I don't know if my dog will be traumatized going back to the same kennel without my other dog. He never saw the dog after they euthanized her, so the last scent he remembers is her fear. Would it be better to switch kennels, even though the staff know and love him? Or will he be more traumatized going to a new place with new staff and a new routine? Do you feel he will remember everything that happened at the kennel? I'd appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks you so much!
~ Distraught in Syracuse
Dear Distraught,
First, please accept my heartfelt condolences for your tragic loss. This must have been awful for everyone, including you, your six year-old dog, and the kennel personnel. Even if your dog does not remember the details of his last kennel stay, he will no doubt miss your other dog, as she was always there when they were kenneled.
You have multiple options for your dog as far as boarding when you go out of town. It is not unusual for dogs to be nervous when then are kenneled, and this can result in behaviors such as anorexia. If you feel the personnel at the boarding kennel you like and know will treat him well, you can certainly do a test run by boarding him for the day, and seeing how he does. Have them feed him his breakfast and see if he will eat for them, or take treats from them, or both. You may also opt to do this at a new kennel and compare his behaviors at each.
Another option is to hire a house sitter who would be willing to care for your dog as well. This does offer more personalized attention and a familiar and comfortable environment for your dog.
If your dog does not do well in either situation because he is grieving, speak with your veterinarian about the possibility of using a short (3-6 months) course of an anti-anxiety medication to help, and try to get him involved in family activities and exercise as much as possible.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Cat Toy Preference
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 1 December 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My sister’s cat loves fuzzy mice toys. When I got my new cat from the animal shelter, I bought a half dozen fuzzy mice for him, but he ignores them. Is there something wrong with him?
Puzzled in Palermo
Dear Puzzled,
Cats can have distinct prey preferences, even if they have been indoors all their lives, and this may influence his choice of play toys. Prey preference can fall into the general categories of “bird,” “mouse,” and “bug.”
“Bird” toys have feathers attached to them. Some of them fly through the air (fishing pole type toys). Peacock feathers can be the ultimate “bird” toy. Toys that make chirping sounds also fall into this category.
“Mouse” type toys can be covered with fur. Stuffed animals and balls also fall into this category. These toys move on the ground instead of flying through the air.
“Bug” toys are small and move rapidly. Examples include laser pointers, a string with a knot tied at the end, or a kibble thrown across the floor.
In order to figure out your cat’s toy preference, determine what kind of prey he prefers. If your cat spends time looking out a window, see if you can figure out what captures his attention the most. Is it the bird that lands on the branch nearby, or the bug that flies near the window pane, or the chipmunk in the garden? You can also test your cats preferences by providing toys in different categories sequentially or at the same time, and seeing what your cat chooses.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My sister’s cat loves fuzzy mice toys. When I got my new cat from the animal shelter, I bought a half dozen fuzzy mice for him, but he ignores them. Is there something wrong with him?
Puzzled in Palermo
Dear Puzzled,
Cats can have distinct prey preferences, even if they have been indoors all their lives, and this may influence his choice of play toys. Prey preference can fall into the general categories of “bird,” “mouse,” and “bug.”
“Bird” toys have feathers attached to them. Some of them fly through the air (fishing pole type toys). Peacock feathers can be the ultimate “bird” toy. Toys that make chirping sounds also fall into this category.
“Mouse” type toys can be covered with fur. Stuffed animals and balls also fall into this category. These toys move on the ground instead of flying through the air.
“Bug” toys are small and move rapidly. Examples include laser pointers, a string with a knot tied at the end, or a kibble thrown across the floor.
In order to figure out your cat’s toy preference, determine what kind of prey he prefers. If your cat spends time looking out a window, see if you can figure out what captures his attention the most. Is it the bird that lands on the branch nearby, or the bug that flies near the window pane, or the chipmunk in the garden? You can also test your cats preferences by providing toys in different categories sequentially or at the same time, and seeing what your cat chooses.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
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