[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 3 November 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee
I love my cats (I have 9 of them!), but one of them is spraying urine around my house, and it stinks! What can I do? I’d like to try to keep them all indoor-only, especially since I live by a busy road.
Stinky in Solvay
Dear Stinky,
Feline urine spraying is a normal behavior in both male and female cats, yet is is quite undesirable when humans share a residence with their cats. Spraying is used as a way to mark territory. The main offenders tend to be intact male cats, so if your male cat has not been neutered yet, consider doing so as soon as possible.
Be certain that the problem is spraying versus housesoiling (not using the litter box). Spraying tends to be on vertical surfaces and involves a small amount of urine. If you are not sure, consult with your veterinarian, who may want to start with a medical workup of the problem. If a medical problem has been ruled out, consider what might be the primary cause of the spraying.
Feral cats can have surprisingly large territories. If you have multiple cats in your house, it may be that your spraying cat may be vying for more territory versus your other cats. Increased density of cats in the house can also increase stress amongst the cats, and the chance of one or more spraying in response goes up.
If you have stray cats that roam close to your house, and your cat can see them, spraying near windows and doors can occur as a “warning” to the strange cats that this territory is already occupied. Blocking access to windows can help with this. Also discourage stray cats from entering your property; do not feed them, and consider the use of aversives (www.cat-repellant.info).
Treat all the urine-sprayed surfaces with an enzymatic cleaner to remove the odor. Consider the use of Feliway (also marketed as Comfort Zone for cats), which is a synthetic feline facial pheromone analogue. Feliway can help to reduce overall stress in your cats, and is available in a pump spray and as an electronic plug-in diffuser. Do not mix the enzymatic cleaner with the Feliway because the enzymes will degrade the Feliway, too.
Consider reducing the number of cats in your household, or at least vow not to add any more. A behaviorist may be able to identify other sources of stress experienced by your cats, and suggest behavior modification exercises that can help to alleviate it.
Also consider use of anti-anxiety medication to help reduce your cat’s stress. Examples include amitriptylene, busprione, clomipramine and fluoxetine. None of these medications are labeled for use in cats, and use of one or more of them would be off-label, but I have found them to be effective. Your veterinarian may want to do baseline bloodwork before starting the medication and monitoring bloodwork while your cat is on the medication to ensure his continuing health.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Monday, June 1, 2009
Fencing
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 27 October 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My neighbors keep calling my town dog control because my Jack Russell Terrier keeps wandering out of my yard. Do you have any suggestions for how to keep him on my property so I don’t keep getting in trouble?
Escapee in Camillus
Dear Escapee,
There are multiple methods used to confine a dog to your property. These include tie-out stakes and overhead runners to which a line is attached. The other end of the line clips onto your dog’s flat collar or harness. Choke chains should not be used with a tie-out line due to risk of neck trauma. Prong collars should not be used as well because they can pop open. The advantages to tie-outs are that it is relatively inexpensive and easy to set up. The disadvantages include tangling around yard landscaping, injury from the line wrapping around legs, and slipping of the collar. Some dogs can exhibit increased aggression when tied up.
Fencing can provide a barrier to keep a dog safely in a yard while allowing a dog to run free without being tied to anything. Physical fencing comes in several varieties, including stockade and chain link. Stockade fencing can be a bit harder for dogs to climb and has the advantage of blocking the dog’s view of neighborhood activity, which can reduce nuisance barking, but is more expensive than chain link.
Invisible fencing is an option for owners who live in neighborhoods that prohibit fencing or who do not want to erect a physical fence on their property for aesthetic reasons. Invisible fencing systems consist of a buried wire that runs along the perimeter of desired dog area that is connected to a power source, and transmitter collars worn by each dog. As the dog with the collar approaches the perimeter wire, a warning signal is emitted, and if the dog crosses the perimeter, an electronic shock is delivered to the dog. These systems do require training of each dog so the dog understands what the warning signal and the punishment shock are for. Disadvantages of these systems include expense, potential for injury from the shock collar, failure of the fence during a power outage or if the collar battery runs low, and the fact that this fencing system will not keep unwanted animals or people out of your yard.
None of these fencing systems will confine every dog. Some dogs learn to climb or vault over fences, some dig under them, some chew through them. Dogs that break through an invisible fence to chase prey will often refuse to come back into the yard because they know they would be shocked on the way into the yard, too.
Consider your dog’s personality and activity level before deciding on a way to keep your dog in your yard.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My neighbors keep calling my town dog control because my Jack Russell Terrier keeps wandering out of my yard. Do you have any suggestions for how to keep him on my property so I don’t keep getting in trouble?
Escapee in Camillus
Dear Escapee,
There are multiple methods used to confine a dog to your property. These include tie-out stakes and overhead runners to which a line is attached. The other end of the line clips onto your dog’s flat collar or harness. Choke chains should not be used with a tie-out line due to risk of neck trauma. Prong collars should not be used as well because they can pop open. The advantages to tie-outs are that it is relatively inexpensive and easy to set up. The disadvantages include tangling around yard landscaping, injury from the line wrapping around legs, and slipping of the collar. Some dogs can exhibit increased aggression when tied up.
Fencing can provide a barrier to keep a dog safely in a yard while allowing a dog to run free without being tied to anything. Physical fencing comes in several varieties, including stockade and chain link. Stockade fencing can be a bit harder for dogs to climb and has the advantage of blocking the dog’s view of neighborhood activity, which can reduce nuisance barking, but is more expensive than chain link.
Invisible fencing is an option for owners who live in neighborhoods that prohibit fencing or who do not want to erect a physical fence on their property for aesthetic reasons. Invisible fencing systems consist of a buried wire that runs along the perimeter of desired dog area that is connected to a power source, and transmitter collars worn by each dog. As the dog with the collar approaches the perimeter wire, a warning signal is emitted, and if the dog crosses the perimeter, an electronic shock is delivered to the dog. These systems do require training of each dog so the dog understands what the warning signal and the punishment shock are for. Disadvantages of these systems include expense, potential for injury from the shock collar, failure of the fence during a power outage or if the collar battery runs low, and the fact that this fencing system will not keep unwanted animals or people out of your yard.
None of these fencing systems will confine every dog. Some dogs learn to climb or vault over fences, some dig under them, some chew through them. Dogs that break through an invisible fence to chase prey will often refuse to come back into the yard because they know they would be shocked on the way into the yard, too.
Consider your dog’s personality and activity level before deciding on a way to keep your dog in your yard.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Gentle Leader
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 20 October 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My Golden Retriever, Indy, is 10 months old. He’s grown so much since I got him, and now he is pulling me whenever I try to walk him. I’m afraid I’m going to end up looking like Linus at the end of his blanket when Snoopy is running with it. Help!
Sincerely,
Indy’s Mom
Dear Indy’s Mom,
If you have not taken Indy to an obedience class yet, I would highly recommend starting with that.
One tool that can help with pulling is a head halter called the Gentle Leader (see picture above, www.premier.com ). This tool consists of a nose loop and a neck strap. The fit of the neck strap is quite snug and sits above the larynx, so no pressure is ever put on the larynx or trachea. The nose loop may at first glance look like a muzzle, but when properly fit, the dog can open his mouth to eat, drink, and play fetch. The leash is attached to the ring at the bottom of the nose loop.
The Gentle Leader is a training device that operates without the use of pain, as the choke and prong collars do. When it is worn, if the dog pulls too far forward, the nose loop tightens and pressure is applied to the top of the dog’s muzzle and to the back of the neck. The dog walker should not jerk the leash – instead, gentle backwards pressure is recommended to correct the dog for pulling. As soon as the dog stops pulling, the pressure on the muzzle is released.
Dogs have a natural reflex to oppose pressure placed upon them – that is why they lean into petting – and why they lean into collars and harnesses when walking. The Gentle Leader puts pressure elsewhere when the dog pulls, so the natural tendency to pull is eliminated.
Gentle Leader headcollars come in a variety of sizes and colors. For dogs with short noses (Pugs, Boxers, Shih Tzus, etc.) the Snoot Loop (www.SnootLoop.com) may be a good alternative.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Housetraining dogs
[This was originally posted on the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 13 October 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My Mom has an eight year-old Bichon that urinates in the house. Even when she lets him out, the minute she brings him in and leaves the room, he urinates. My Mom is beside herself and does not know what to do. This dog was a rescue, so we are wondering if maybe something happened in the dog’s past that makes him do that. Any help you can give me so I can help my Mom would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Stepsister of NotHousebroken
Dear Stepsister,
My first recommendation is to bring a first-of-the-morning urine sample to your veterinarian to rule out a medical problem.
I would also like to know if this dog actually urinates outside. Perhaps he has never been taught that outside is the desirable place to urinate. If this is the case, he may need to be retrained, starting from the very beginning. I highly recommend crate training as a method for housebreaking dogs (and puppies). The crate should only be large enough for the dog to lie down comfortably, and not so big that he can eliminate on one side and rest on the other side. Most dogs do not want to soil in their resting area, so this method trains their bladder to hold it. When you feel you dog might need to urinate (i.e. after waking from a nap), take him outside to his “place.” If he urinates, he can come back inside and spend some play time with you; if he does not, he goes back into the crate for 15 minutes, after which, you take him outside again. It may be helpful to place some urine-soaked paper towels or newspapers to the area in which you prefer him to use as his toilet so that it smells like a toilet.
It is important that your dog not be allowed to be out of your sight, lest he learn that he can urinate anywhere without consequence as long as you are not in view. You can keep your dog with you by using gates to block off access to out-of-sight rooms or using a leash to tether him to you (your waist, belt loop) or a doorknob or a heavy piece of furniture. If you are not able to monitor your dog’s behavior, put him back in his crate with a treat.
It can be helpful to teach your dog to eliminate on command. To train this command (Hurry up! Get busy! Go potty!), whenever you take your dog outside, repeat the command of your choice when he starts to exhibit behavior that precedes elimination – these behaviors can vary from dog to dog, but can include circling, pacing, and sniffing. Be sure to give verbal praise when your dog does ask you ask!
If your dog does urinate inside, be sure to clean the soiled area with an enzymatic cleaner. The enzymes degrade the molecules that make the odor. Dogs have an exquisitely sensitive sense of smell, and even if you can’t smell it, your dog might, and if it smells like his toilet, he might use it as his toilet.
Lastly, do not punish your dog for urinating in the house. Rubbing a dog’s nose into soiled areas will only make him anxious because if it happened more than 5 seconds ago, they will have no recollection that they did it, and therefore have no idea why he is being punished. In fact, it may make him more likely to avoid eliminating in your presence. If you do happen to catch him in the act of urinating, interrupt the behavior (screech, pick him up, clap your hands), take him outside, and praise him if he finishes the job outside.
Housesoiling can be a frustrating problem, but with some consistent training, most dogs can be taught to eliminate outside.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My Mom has an eight year-old Bichon that urinates in the house. Even when she lets him out, the minute she brings him in and leaves the room, he urinates. My Mom is beside herself and does not know what to do. This dog was a rescue, so we are wondering if maybe something happened in the dog’s past that makes him do that. Any help you can give me so I can help my Mom would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Stepsister of NotHousebroken
Dear Stepsister,
My first recommendation is to bring a first-of-the-morning urine sample to your veterinarian to rule out a medical problem.
I would also like to know if this dog actually urinates outside. Perhaps he has never been taught that outside is the desirable place to urinate. If this is the case, he may need to be retrained, starting from the very beginning. I highly recommend crate training as a method for housebreaking dogs (and puppies). The crate should only be large enough for the dog to lie down comfortably, and not so big that he can eliminate on one side and rest on the other side. Most dogs do not want to soil in their resting area, so this method trains their bladder to hold it. When you feel you dog might need to urinate (i.e. after waking from a nap), take him outside to his “place.” If he urinates, he can come back inside and spend some play time with you; if he does not, he goes back into the crate for 15 minutes, after which, you take him outside again. It may be helpful to place some urine-soaked paper towels or newspapers to the area in which you prefer him to use as his toilet so that it smells like a toilet.
It is important that your dog not be allowed to be out of your sight, lest he learn that he can urinate anywhere without consequence as long as you are not in view. You can keep your dog with you by using gates to block off access to out-of-sight rooms or using a leash to tether him to you (your waist, belt loop) or a doorknob or a heavy piece of furniture. If you are not able to monitor your dog’s behavior, put him back in his crate with a treat.
It can be helpful to teach your dog to eliminate on command. To train this command (Hurry up! Get busy! Go potty!), whenever you take your dog outside, repeat the command of your choice when he starts to exhibit behavior that precedes elimination – these behaviors can vary from dog to dog, but can include circling, pacing, and sniffing. Be sure to give verbal praise when your dog does ask you ask!
If your dog does urinate inside, be sure to clean the soiled area with an enzymatic cleaner. The enzymes degrade the molecules that make the odor. Dogs have an exquisitely sensitive sense of smell, and even if you can’t smell it, your dog might, and if it smells like his toilet, he might use it as his toilet.
Lastly, do not punish your dog for urinating in the house. Rubbing a dog’s nose into soiled areas will only make him anxious because if it happened more than 5 seconds ago, they will have no recollection that they did it, and therefore have no idea why he is being punished. In fact, it may make him more likely to avoid eliminating in your presence. If you do happen to catch him in the act of urinating, interrupt the behavior (screech, pick him up, clap your hands), take him outside, and praise him if he finishes the job outside.
Housesoiling can be a frustrating problem, but with some consistent training, most dogs can be taught to eliminate outside.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Puppy Socialization
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 5 October 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee.
I just got my new Miniature Pinscher puppy, Jellybean, from the breeder. The breeder did recommend taking Jellybean to puppy classes, but I’m afraid that she’ll get diseases from the other puppies. I also don’t want her to get stepped on by the bigger puppies. What do you think?
Sincerely,
Jelly’s Mom in Jordan
Dear Jelly’s Mom,
Congratulations on your new family member!
I highly recommend you start your dog in a puppy class while the dog is within the first three months of life. The first three months in a puppy’s live are crucial in terms of exposing the puppy to other dogs, people, environments and stimuli – this is a time in which your puppy can be exposed to these new things without excessive fear or anxiety. Lack of this kind of socialization and exposure to new things can lead to behavior problems later in life, such as fear and aggression. Behavior problems are the leading cause for a young dog to be surrendered to a shelter. The relative risk of deadly, infectious disease is relatively small compared to the risk of a behavior problem developing due lack of proper socialization.
For more information on the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviorists position on early puppy socialization, go to http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/puppy%20socialization.pdf
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee.
I just got my new Miniature Pinscher puppy, Jellybean, from the breeder. The breeder did recommend taking Jellybean to puppy classes, but I’m afraid that she’ll get diseases from the other puppies. I also don’t want her to get stepped on by the bigger puppies. What do you think?
Sincerely,
Jelly’s Mom in Jordan
Dear Jelly’s Mom,
Congratulations on your new family member!
I highly recommend you start your dog in a puppy class while the dog is within the first three months of life. The first three months in a puppy’s live are crucial in terms of exposing the puppy to other dogs, people, environments and stimuli – this is a time in which your puppy can be exposed to these new things without excessive fear or anxiety. Lack of this kind of socialization and exposure to new things can lead to behavior problems later in life, such as fear and aggression. Behavior problems are the leading cause for a young dog to be surrendered to a shelter. The relative risk of deadly, infectious disease is relatively small compared to the risk of a behavior problem developing due lack of proper socialization.
For more information on the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviorists position on early puppy socialization, go to http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/puppy%20socialization.pdf
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
To Punish or Not to Punish?
[This was originally posted to the Fairmount Animal Hosptial website on 28 September 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My husband and I just got a young, rescue German Shorthair Pointer. He is so sweet, but we are having a problem with him coming to us when called when he is outside. All he wants to do is sniff. My husband wants to get an electronic collar for him. I think that would be mean. What do you think?
Sincerely,
WannaBNice in Nedrow
Dear WannaBNice,
Electronic collars can be used to train dogs using a process called negative reinforcement. When the collar shocks a dog, it is painful and undesirable, so theoretically, the dog should do all he can to avoid the negative stimulus. The problem with electronic collars is that they require exquisite timing, else the dog may not understand what he is being punished for, and over time, mistimed punishments can create anxiety, fear and confusion. Also, the dog needs to understand just what he is being punished for, so if your dog does not understand a “come” command in the first place, the painful shock certainly will not help the situation.
In general, I recommend training with positive reinforcement (rewarding behaviors you do want your dog to exhibit) and negative punishment (removing something the dog wants to decrease the chance the undesirable behavior will occur again). For example, if I ask my dog to “come” and he does, he gets a yummy treat, and if he does not, the treat goes away (I pocket it, I give it to another, well-behaved dog, or, if I find it edible, I eat it). A “come” command can easily be trained by having the dog on a leash and flat collar. Start with small distances in a relatively distraction-free environment, and gradually increase the distance and distraction level as your dog progresses. The reward can be a small food treat, verbal praise, petting, play with a toy, or a combination of these.
The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has generated a position statement regarding punishment which states that punitive methods and tools (i.e., choke collar, prong collar, electronic collar, or other physical forms of punishment) should never be used initially in training. It also states that if such methods are offered, the handler of the dog should be made fully aware of possible negative consequences that can result. The actual position statement can be found at http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/Combined_Punishment_Statements.pdf .
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My husband and I just got a young, rescue German Shorthair Pointer. He is so sweet, but we are having a problem with him coming to us when called when he is outside. All he wants to do is sniff. My husband wants to get an electronic collar for him. I think that would be mean. What do you think?
Sincerely,
WannaBNice in Nedrow
Dear WannaBNice,
Electronic collars can be used to train dogs using a process called negative reinforcement. When the collar shocks a dog, it is painful and undesirable, so theoretically, the dog should do all he can to avoid the negative stimulus. The problem with electronic collars is that they require exquisite timing, else the dog may not understand what he is being punished for, and over time, mistimed punishments can create anxiety, fear and confusion. Also, the dog needs to understand just what he is being punished for, so if your dog does not understand a “come” command in the first place, the painful shock certainly will not help the situation.
In general, I recommend training with positive reinforcement (rewarding behaviors you do want your dog to exhibit) and negative punishment (removing something the dog wants to decrease the chance the undesirable behavior will occur again). For example, if I ask my dog to “come” and he does, he gets a yummy treat, and if he does not, the treat goes away (I pocket it, I give it to another, well-behaved dog, or, if I find it edible, I eat it). A “come” command can easily be trained by having the dog on a leash and flat collar. Start with small distances in a relatively distraction-free environment, and gradually increase the distance and distraction level as your dog progresses. The reward can be a small food treat, verbal praise, petting, play with a toy, or a combination of these.
The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has generated a position statement regarding punishment which states that punitive methods and tools (i.e., choke collar, prong collar, electronic collar, or other physical forms of punishment) should never be used initially in training. It also states that if such methods are offered, the handler of the dog should be made fully aware of possible negative consequences that can result. The actual position statement can be found at http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/Combined_Punishment_Statements.pdf .
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Play Aggression in Cats
[This was originally posted on the Fairmount Animal Hospital website on 21 September 2008.]
Dear Dr. Lee,
My 7 month-old kitten Callie attacks my hands and feet – she scratches and bites them. I have multiple scrapes and scars on my hands. I’ve had her since she was a teeny baby, and while I could handle this back then, she’s bigger and stronger now. What can I do to discourage this behavior?
Scratched Up in Cicero
Dear Scratched,
Inappropriate play is often seen in cats who are orphaned early, and who never learned to control the intensity of their play. Cats who play aggressively can do serious damage.
Use a device to dissuade your cat from its exuberant behavior (for example, water pistol, air horn, fog horn) as the cat first begins to show the signs of inappropriate play to stop the behavior. When your cat acts wonderfully, reward that good behavior with gentle praise, soft petting and massage. Any time the cat plays appropriately (no teeth or unsheathed claws), reward the cat with love, praise, attention, appropriate play and kitty treats.
You should NOT use your hands to play aggressively with these cats. Your kitten should not be taught to follow your hand or foot and pounce on it. Encouraging the cat to stalk human body parts will only exacerbate the problem. Aggressive corrections are also discouraged.
Any time your cat accidentally scratches or bites a person, that person should act horrified and withdraw attention from the cat. There is no need to physically punish the cat. If the cat is young, blowing in its nose can be sufficient to startle it.
Increasing the amount of aerobic exercise your cat gets can improve the problem as well. Interactive play is often the best source of exercise, whether it be with you or with another cat.
Cats can be taught that it is acceptable to play roughly with toys, but not with people. Appropriate toys include furry mice that can be thrown for the cat to chase or fetch, and cat dancers, in which a feather or similar enticing plaything is attached to a string and can be dangled from a safe distance from teeth and claws.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
Dear Dr. Lee,
My 7 month-old kitten Callie attacks my hands and feet – she scratches and bites them. I have multiple scrapes and scars on my hands. I’ve had her since she was a teeny baby, and while I could handle this back then, she’s bigger and stronger now. What can I do to discourage this behavior?
Scratched Up in Cicero
Dear Scratched,
Inappropriate play is often seen in cats who are orphaned early, and who never learned to control the intensity of their play. Cats who play aggressively can do serious damage.
Use a device to dissuade your cat from its exuberant behavior (for example, water pistol, air horn, fog horn) as the cat first begins to show the signs of inappropriate play to stop the behavior. When your cat acts wonderfully, reward that good behavior with gentle praise, soft petting and massage. Any time the cat plays appropriately (no teeth or unsheathed claws), reward the cat with love, praise, attention, appropriate play and kitty treats.
You should NOT use your hands to play aggressively with these cats. Your kitten should not be taught to follow your hand or foot and pounce on it. Encouraging the cat to stalk human body parts will only exacerbate the problem. Aggressive corrections are also discouraged.
Any time your cat accidentally scratches or bites a person, that person should act horrified and withdraw attention from the cat. There is no need to physically punish the cat. If the cat is young, blowing in its nose can be sufficient to startle it.
Increasing the amount of aerobic exercise your cat gets can improve the problem as well. Interactive play is often the best source of exercise, whether it be with you or with another cat.
Cats can be taught that it is acceptable to play roughly with toys, but not with people. Appropriate toys include furry mice that can be thrown for the cat to chase or fetch, and cat dancers, in which a feather or similar enticing plaything is attached to a string and can be dangled from a safe distance from teeth and claws.
Sincerely,
Dr. Lee
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